Somewhere in China, I'm sure, one can still find an old tea farmer who processes small batches of his wonderful, high-grown tea, and who will hand it over for a paltry sum. That fellow, I assure you, is not going to be found at Wu Yi. While I am not willing to rule out the possibility that I will stumble across a batch of great Wu Yi tea at a bargain price, I have come to expect that, with Wu Yi teas, you will usually get what you pay for. So if you want to pay a modest prices for your Wu Yi teas, you are going to have to chose how you compromise. Those compromises are the subject of today's post.
So, before I talk about the compromises, I'd like to first describe my idea of the ideal Wu Yi rock tea. That tea would be produced from tea picked at the peak of the spring season, picked solely by hand using the top shoot and the two leaves below it. Those leaves would come from a prime location in the Zheng Yan area, nestled in the shadow of one of the great crags. The leaves would be bright and fleshy, and filled with goodness. The sky would be clear, the weather relatively cool, and the leaves free from moisture. Porters would move them down the mountain quickly, and deliver them to a small, but well equipped and staffed tea factory, where they would be spread out for wilting in the afternoon sun. The tea master would inspect the wilting leaves frequently and then have his staff gather up the teas at the right moment and bring them inside to start the drying and bruising phases. The teas would be carefully guided through each processing step, preferably by hand, but likely using modern machinery if the factory produces even moderate amounts of product. The tea master would not depart until the rolling process was complete, probably sometime the following morning. The tea would be carefully bagged, and then sorted/de-stemmed and given a careful, extended low-heat baking over charcoal at a later time. A blend of the baked batches would yield a tea with a noticeable aroma, combining the deep sweet scents of stone fruits, along with honeysuckle-like florals. The otherwise pure-smelling aroma, would be complex with secondary scents reminiscent of cocoa powder, freshly cut wood, toasted almonds, coconut, honey, vanilla, and a hint of the wood smoke associated with the drying and baking processes. In the mouth, the tea would possess the distinct flavors associated with the cultivar and be deep, smooth, and have a pleasant fruity sweetness. A green/floral element would also be present, as would be flavors associated with the aromas mentioned above. The tea would coat the mouth with the rock essence. This would be most noticeable after the swallow at the back of the mouth and in the throat, where a slightly dry, almost chalk texture, would appear, followed by a concentrated burst of deep flavor. The back-of-the-mouth flavor would persist for many minutes, allowing you to enjoy the tea long after it had been swallowed. The emptied tea cup would be redolent with the concentrated scent of the tea essence. Successive infusions of the leaves would reveal slightly different aspects of the tea, until, many cups later, the tea faded into a light and pure soup. Did I mention it would be inexpensive too? Dream on!
So, if you are trying to find a fairly inexpensive Wu Yi oolong tea, what will you have to forgo? For one thing, location. It will be very difficult, if not impossible, to find any proper Zheng Yan tea being offered for a moderate price. Secondly, you're far less likely to find a tea picked near the peak of the spring season. If the vendor doesn't explicitly state the picking season, there is reason to suspect you'll be getting a summer or fall plucking. While autumn teas can be quite decent, summer teas are more likely to be coarse or to carry off aromas and flavors. Cheaper teas are also more likely to be picked, or perhaps I should say cut, using mechanical means. Mechanical gathering definitely increases the chances of incorporating older, poorer-tasting leaf. Large-scale production contributes to cost savings too, so less inexpensive teas are more likely to be produced in large batches. While there are well-equipped tea factories that are able to process large quantities of leaf while carefully controlling processing, there are others who certainly are not. Finally, cheap begets cheap. If the farmer brings in sub-par leaf, chances are the factory will apply sub-par processing to it.
In the coming posts, I'll review and attempt to spot the compromises in eleven not-too-expensive Wu Yi teas and one rather expensive one.
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
Sunday, December 16, 2012
Wu Yi Rock Tea Observations
Over the next few weeks, I will be posting my observations on a dozen or so recently purchased Wu Yi oolong teas. The initial goal of these purchases was to assess vendors based on the quality and value of their moderately-priced Wu Yi oolongs. I'll begin my postings with the least expensive of the teas, and move up from there. Before I start with the reviews, I'd like to summarize those things that, in a broad sense, distinguish and characterize Wu Yi oolong teas.
The Wu Yi mountain oolong teas can be characterized by the following things:
- Type of tea plant (cultivar)
- Location of plantation
- Method of processing
- Growing season
Tea Cultivars
The Wu Yi mountains are home to hundreds of wild native tea cultivars, but just a handful of them have achieved success in commercial cultivation. The best known and most highly prized of these is the Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) cultivar, which, in many minds, is synonymous with Wu Yi Rock Tea. Below Da Hong Pao, the so-called King of Wu Yi, there are four other cultivars known as the Si Da Ming Cong (Four Big Famous(Great) Bushes) that are considered the best of the cultivars. They include: Bai Ji Guan (White Cockscomb), Tie Luo Han (Iron Warrior Monk), Shui Jin Gui (Golden Water Turtle), and Ban Tian Yao (Half Way to Heaven). In addition to their generally superior quality, the Si Da Ming Cong are produced in fairly limited quantities, so prices for these teas tend to be very high.
Below the Si Da Ming Cong are a sizeable number of Qi Zhong (Outstanding Type) cultivars, often sporting colorful names, such as Drunken Concubine or Golden Key, but which are rarely available due to limited production.
Two tea cultivars, Shui Xian and Rou Gui, have their own family classification. Both are widely cultivated in the Wu Yi mountains and can produce outstanding tea. Shui Xian, the most widely planted of all Wu Yi cultivars, is produced in many styles and most prized in its Lao Cong (Old Bush) form. Anyone who has experienced one of the many low-quality Shui Xian produced outside of the Wu Yi mountains may be tempted to avoid the cultivar altogether. That would be a shame, as it can produce a most charming brew. Rou Gui can produce a wonderfully aromatic and intensely flavored tea that can give the best of the Si Da Ming Cong a run for their money. Production of this tea has increased greatly in the Wu Yi mountains, and often in prime plantation space.
Farmers and scientists were apparently not happy with all the native bounty of Wu Yi, so some cultivars from outside of Wu Yi have been transplanted there. These foreign cultivars generally do well in the areas surrounding the Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) area. For example, the Ba Xian cultivar, which can produce outstanding teas in both Anxi county in southern Fujian and at Phoenix Mountain in northern Guangdong, can make an excellent tea at Wu Yi too. Scientists at the Wu Yi Research Institute have recently produced several new teas that have been optimized for the Wu Yi soils and climate, and which in some cases, take into account the shift in consumer preference toward greener, more floral oolong. Two particularly successful cultivars are the Huang Guan Yin and Jin Fo.
The most widely grown and therefore available Wu Yi teas are Shui Xian, Da Hong Pao, and Rou Gui. Demand for the famous Da Hong Pao is high, and this has resulted in widespread planting, often in less than ideal locations. Da Hong Pao can be outstanding, but there is plenty on the market that is not. Shui Xian runs the gamut, from poor to sublime, and Rou Gui tends to be one of the more reliable of the rock teas.
The location of a Wu Yi mountain tea plantation can make a very big difference in final-product quality. Wu Yi teas are broadly classified by location as Zheng Yan (Genuine Mountain), Ban Yan (Half Mountain), Zhou (grown near the river bank), or Outer Wu Yi (grown well outside the Zheng Yan area).
The best teas are grown in the delimited Zheng Yan area, also referred to as Inner Wu Yi, the Wu Yi scenic area, or the tourist area. This 70 square kilometer area lies just west of Wu Yi Shan City and features 36 peaks, 99 crags, numerous streams, and stunning waterfalls. It's not only beautiful, but some of the best teas in the world are made here. There are different micro-climates within the area, but, in general, all share the frequent fog, mist and mineral-rich soil that contribute to the characteristic qualities of genuine Wu Yi tea. The actual plantation space within the scenic area is spotty, so production is limited, making genuine rock tea very expensive, with the best of it rarely making it to the open market.
The Ban Yan teas are grown just outside the borders of the Zheng Yan area. This area can be thought of as a little less of everything that is Zheng Yan. In general, the soils are not quite as mineral rich, the fogs and mists not as persistent, and the towering land forms, stunted. While this area may not have quite the potential of the central area, several serious tea makers make very fine teas here. Production here is generally more commercial, so Ban Yan teas tend to be a bit more consistent and straight forward than many of their more artisanal Zheng Yan counterparts.
Zhou teas are produced neighboring the stream banks where the soil is different and the bushes receive little protection from the sun. These are considered to be the teas of lowest quality.
The Outer Wu Yi area encompasses a variety of terrains. First, the terms Outer Wu Yi and Ban Yan are often interchanged. I like to think of the Outer Wu Yi as those areas well outside of the scenic area, and that includes the other famous Wu Yi tea producing area far to the west of the scenic area near Tong Mu where Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (Lapsang Souchong) is produced. Here, in the area known as the Wu Yi Nature Reserve, the landscape is more conventionally scenic, with rugged forested mountains. This area is known for its Wu Yi Bohea, Lapsang Souchong, and Jin Jun Mei black teas, but very nice Oolongs are also produced from the local Qi Lan cultivar. To the south of the Zheng Yan area, the land flattens out somewhat and one can find large plantations. I suspect this area supplies much of the leaf for the more economically-priced Wu Yi oolong.
Wu Yi tea processing is extremely complex, and, this allows the tea master to influence the tea's character in many different ways during the many stages. It would be a great oversimplification to say that Wu Yi processing can be classified based on the degree of leaf oxidation and the amount of baking, or, more simply, as either modern or traditional, but that is generally how it's done.
In recent years, there has been a trend toward producing Wu Yi oolongs that are greener and less baked. These teas are referred to as modern style, light roast, fen aroma, or fragrance teas. They generally have a strong floral aroma, noticeable varietal character, and quite a bit of up-front flavor. At the other extreme are the so-called traditional teas that undergo moderate-to-heavy oxidation and extended baking over charcoal. These teas often have a more restrained, but deeper aroma, with a softer mouth feel, and a deeper, fruitier and sweeter taste. Traditional teas also tend to give up their flavors and aromas more slowly, but last through more infusions, making them ideal for Gong Fu preparation.
In reality, tea makers are not constrained by these categorizations. They can vary much more than just the degree of oxidation or baking, including such things as: the of time of withering and drying, the degree and frequency of shaking, the time that teas are left piled between steps, the force and duration of rolling, and the source of heat used during drying or baking. In addition, and especially with smaller-batch processing, tea makers can process leaf from different areas and days very differently, and then blend them together later. The blended product can be more complex and multidimensional than more uniformly processed teas.
Wu Yi oolongs may be picked in the spring, summer, fall, or winter, but spring tea is almost universally considered to be the best. In fact, some producers only produce a spring tea. Winter and autumn pluckings come next in quality, and summer ranks a distant last. Relatively little winter tea is produced, and, in my experience, autumn oolongs tend to be somewhat duller and have less varietal distinction than their spring counterparts. That doesn't mean that great autumn tea isn't produced. It's just that spring is generally a better bet, especially if you like the modern style teas.
Teas, like wines,also vary by year. I remember comparing a particular factory's spring 2009 rock teas to the equivalent 2010 teas. The 2009 teas, with perhaps the exception of the Da Hong Pao, were noticeably better.
Below the Si Da Ming Cong are a sizeable number of Qi Zhong (Outstanding Type) cultivars, often sporting colorful names, such as Drunken Concubine or Golden Key, but which are rarely available due to limited production.
Two tea cultivars, Shui Xian and Rou Gui, have their own family classification. Both are widely cultivated in the Wu Yi mountains and can produce outstanding tea. Shui Xian, the most widely planted of all Wu Yi cultivars, is produced in many styles and most prized in its Lao Cong (Old Bush) form. Anyone who has experienced one of the many low-quality Shui Xian produced outside of the Wu Yi mountains may be tempted to avoid the cultivar altogether. That would be a shame, as it can produce a most charming brew. Rou Gui can produce a wonderfully aromatic and intensely flavored tea that can give the best of the Si Da Ming Cong a run for their money. Production of this tea has increased greatly in the Wu Yi mountains, and often in prime plantation space.
Farmers and scientists were apparently not happy with all the native bounty of Wu Yi, so some cultivars from outside of Wu Yi have been transplanted there. These foreign cultivars generally do well in the areas surrounding the Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) area. For example, the Ba Xian cultivar, which can produce outstanding teas in both Anxi county in southern Fujian and at Phoenix Mountain in northern Guangdong, can make an excellent tea at Wu Yi too. Scientists at the Wu Yi Research Institute have recently produced several new teas that have been optimized for the Wu Yi soils and climate, and which in some cases, take into account the shift in consumer preference toward greener, more floral oolong. Two particularly successful cultivars are the Huang Guan Yin and Jin Fo.
The most widely grown and therefore available Wu Yi teas are Shui Xian, Da Hong Pao, and Rou Gui. Demand for the famous Da Hong Pao is high, and this has resulted in widespread planting, often in less than ideal locations. Da Hong Pao can be outstanding, but there is plenty on the market that is not. Shui Xian runs the gamut, from poor to sublime, and Rou Gui tends to be one of the more reliable of the rock teas.
Location
The location of a Wu Yi mountain tea plantation can make a very big difference in final-product quality. Wu Yi teas are broadly classified by location as Zheng Yan (Genuine Mountain), Ban Yan (Half Mountain), Zhou (grown near the river bank), or Outer Wu Yi (grown well outside the Zheng Yan area).
The best teas are grown in the delimited Zheng Yan area, also referred to as Inner Wu Yi, the Wu Yi scenic area, or the tourist area. This 70 square kilometer area lies just west of Wu Yi Shan City and features 36 peaks, 99 crags, numerous streams, and stunning waterfalls. It's not only beautiful, but some of the best teas in the world are made here. There are different micro-climates within the area, but, in general, all share the frequent fog, mist and mineral-rich soil that contribute to the characteristic qualities of genuine Wu Yi tea. The actual plantation space within the scenic area is spotty, so production is limited, making genuine rock tea very expensive, with the best of it rarely making it to the open market.
The Ban Yan teas are grown just outside the borders of the Zheng Yan area. This area can be thought of as a little less of everything that is Zheng Yan. In general, the soils are not quite as mineral rich, the fogs and mists not as persistent, and the towering land forms, stunted. While this area may not have quite the potential of the central area, several serious tea makers make very fine teas here. Production here is generally more commercial, so Ban Yan teas tend to be a bit more consistent and straight forward than many of their more artisanal Zheng Yan counterparts.
Zhou teas are produced neighboring the stream banks where the soil is different and the bushes receive little protection from the sun. These are considered to be the teas of lowest quality.
The Outer Wu Yi area encompasses a variety of terrains. First, the terms Outer Wu Yi and Ban Yan are often interchanged. I like to think of the Outer Wu Yi as those areas well outside of the scenic area, and that includes the other famous Wu Yi tea producing area far to the west of the scenic area near Tong Mu where Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (Lapsang Souchong) is produced. Here, in the area known as the Wu Yi Nature Reserve, the landscape is more conventionally scenic, with rugged forested mountains. This area is known for its Wu Yi Bohea, Lapsang Souchong, and Jin Jun Mei black teas, but very nice Oolongs are also produced from the local Qi Lan cultivar. To the south of the Zheng Yan area, the land flattens out somewhat and one can find large plantations. I suspect this area supplies much of the leaf for the more economically-priced Wu Yi oolong.
Processing
Wu Yi tea processing is extremely complex, and, this allows the tea master to influence the tea's character in many different ways during the many stages. It would be a great oversimplification to say that Wu Yi processing can be classified based on the degree of leaf oxidation and the amount of baking, or, more simply, as either modern or traditional, but that is generally how it's done.
In recent years, there has been a trend toward producing Wu Yi oolongs that are greener and less baked. These teas are referred to as modern style, light roast, fen aroma, or fragrance teas. They generally have a strong floral aroma, noticeable varietal character, and quite a bit of up-front flavor. At the other extreme are the so-called traditional teas that undergo moderate-to-heavy oxidation and extended baking over charcoal. These teas often have a more restrained, but deeper aroma, with a softer mouth feel, and a deeper, fruitier and sweeter taste. Traditional teas also tend to give up their flavors and aromas more slowly, but last through more infusions, making them ideal for Gong Fu preparation.
In reality, tea makers are not constrained by these categorizations. They can vary much more than just the degree of oxidation or baking, including such things as: the of time of withering and drying, the degree and frequency of shaking, the time that teas are left piled between steps, the force and duration of rolling, and the source of heat used during drying or baking. In addition, and especially with smaller-batch processing, tea makers can process leaf from different areas and days very differently, and then blend them together later. The blended product can be more complex and multidimensional than more uniformly processed teas.
Production Seasons
Wu Yi oolongs may be picked in the spring, summer, fall, or winter, but spring tea is almost universally considered to be the best. In fact, some producers only produce a spring tea. Winter and autumn pluckings come next in quality, and summer ranks a distant last. Relatively little winter tea is produced, and, in my experience, autumn oolongs tend to be somewhat duller and have less varietal distinction than their spring counterparts. That doesn't mean that great autumn tea isn't produced. It's just that spring is generally a better bet, especially if you like the modern style teas.
Teas, like wines,also vary by year. I remember comparing a particular factory's spring 2009 rock teas to the equivalent 2010 teas. The 2009 teas, with perhaps the exception of the Da Hong Pao, were noticeably better.
Friday, June 22, 2012
Mao Jian Wrap-up
Our senses and preferences are all different, so I hate to declare winners and losers based on my perceptions and biases, but I will. I found these Mao-Jian-style teas to be quite similar and I would not be terribly surprised if mistook one for another in a blind tasting. Any would be a good choice for a moderately-priced tea for frequent consumption.
My two favorite teas of the bunch were the Tai Mu San and the Special Dao Ren. While the Yun Wu tea did not make my "subjective" top two, I think it was clearly the highest quality tea of the bunch. Both of the Strand teas provided surprising quality for the money. The Upton teas were good too, just not as good a value.
My two favorite teas of the bunch were the Tai Mu San and the Special Dao Ren. While the Yun Wu tea did not make my "subjective" top two, I think it was clearly the highest quality tea of the bunch. Both of the Strand teas provided surprising quality for the money. The Upton teas were good too, just not as good a value.
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Special Dao Ren (Upton Tea Imports)
Upton doesn't call this tea a Mao Jian tea, but I think it fairly qualifies as one. The medium-sized dry, wiry leaf is a healthy medium-dark green. The wet leaf shows tender medium-sized leaf segments and buds, and produces a medium yellow-to-yellow/green liquor. The tea's aroma is full but in no way garish, with clean hay and grass aromas and a hint of nuttiness. It has a medium body, is noticeably sweet and smooth, and a little grassy. It's refreshing and goes down far too easily. The aftertaste is clean, lightly sweet, and just above average in length. The first infusion is charming, the second nice, and the third useable.
This is a relatively sweet, refreshing, and graceful tea that, while somewhat more expensive than some of the competition, is nevertheless worth its price ($9.80 for 80g) in my opinion.
This is a relatively sweet, refreshing, and graceful tea that, while somewhat more expensive than some of the competition, is nevertheless worth its price ($9.80 for 80g) in my opinion.
Friday, June 15, 2012
Tai Mu San (Strand Tea Company)
This organic tea is described as coming from a small farm in the "Wuyi mountain region", but I'm fairly sure it is actually from the Taimu (Tai Mu) mountain area near Fuding, considerably east of Wu Yi Shan and quite close to the coast. If so, it is in good company, as this area is well regarded for its various white, green, and red (Bailin) teas.
The dry wiry leaf is fairly small and aromatic. The wet leaf shows a blend of small whole and medium-small cut leaf with a generous amount of medium-small buds. The yellow-to-yellow/green liquor has quite a few floating tea hairs and a fairly full aroma that is soft, round, and pleasant. It reminds me of fresh, sweet hay. This tea is notably full in the mouth, with more viscosity than any of the other Mao Jian teas reviewed in this segment. Overall, the taste is clean, balanced and comforting. The aftertaste has an above-average intensity and persistence, with a nice tang that carries it for some time. My first two steepings were very nice, and the third was still quite flavorful, if not quite as clean.
This Tai Mu San tea offers excellent quality for the price ($7.95 for 4 oz.) There are pricier teas that provide somewhat more nuance, complexity, and sophistication, but few that beat this tea's comforting, mouth-filling tastiness.
The dry wiry leaf is fairly small and aromatic. The wet leaf shows a blend of small whole and medium-small cut leaf with a generous amount of medium-small buds. The yellow-to-yellow/green liquor has quite a few floating tea hairs and a fairly full aroma that is soft, round, and pleasant. It reminds me of fresh, sweet hay. This tea is notably full in the mouth, with more viscosity than any of the other Mao Jian teas reviewed in this segment. Overall, the taste is clean, balanced and comforting. The aftertaste has an above-average intensity and persistence, with a nice tang that carries it for some time. My first two steepings were very nice, and the third was still quite flavorful, if not quite as clean.
This Tai Mu San tea offers excellent quality for the price ($7.95 for 4 oz.) There are pricier teas that provide somewhat more nuance, complexity, and sophistication, but few that beat this tea's comforting, mouth-filling tastiness.
Saturday, June 9, 2012
Yun Wu Supreme (Strand Tea Company)
Yun Wu (Cloud Mist) teas are a generally made in the Mao Jian style, but are grown at high elevations where clouds and mist blanket the mountainsides. Teas grown in such environments tend to have a very clean, pure, tight, and crisp taste. I've included this tea with the Mao Jians, because for all intents and purposes it is one.
Compared to the other teas reviewed in this category, this tea has the smallest and most wiry dry leaf. The dry leaf smells quite fresh and is pleasantly aromatic. The wet leaf shows primarily leaf pieces from medium-small leaf with some whole medium and whole smaller leaf and a generous number of small buds. The liquor brews up a pale yellow-green and is aromatic, yet in a restrained sense (if that makes sense). It's a little grassy, slightly vegetal (spinach?), and a bit floral. In the mouth the tea comes across similarly, being a little grassy, a bit floral, somewhat sweet, and flavorful in a tight and pure way. Overall, it's balanced with a tendency toward astringency. The aftertaste is clean with a moderate intensity, and a light cleansing astringency that is followed by a tang that persists quite some time. You can get two very nice steepings from this tea, a third that is still fairly pure tasting, and a fourth that, while noticeably weaker, hasn't yet turned "dirty".
This is a very nice, flavorful tea with some finesse and a dose of high-mountain character. There are Mao Jian teas with somewhat more dimension and nuance, and others with more strength and body, but if you are looking for a fairly pure tasting Mao Jian at a very attractive price ($7.95 for 4oz.), give this one a try. Perhaps it's the large number of buds in the mix, or perhaps it's something else, but whatever, this one delivers a stimulant buzz. It wouldn't be my first choice for a bedtime drink.
Compared to the other teas reviewed in this category, this tea has the smallest and most wiry dry leaf. The dry leaf smells quite fresh and is pleasantly aromatic. The wet leaf shows primarily leaf pieces from medium-small leaf with some whole medium and whole smaller leaf and a generous number of small buds. The liquor brews up a pale yellow-green and is aromatic, yet in a restrained sense (if that makes sense). It's a little grassy, slightly vegetal (spinach?), and a bit floral. In the mouth the tea comes across similarly, being a little grassy, a bit floral, somewhat sweet, and flavorful in a tight and pure way. Overall, it's balanced with a tendency toward astringency. The aftertaste is clean with a moderate intensity, and a light cleansing astringency that is followed by a tang that persists quite some time. You can get two very nice steepings from this tea, a third that is still fairly pure tasting, and a fourth that, while noticeably weaker, hasn't yet turned "dirty".
This is a very nice, flavorful tea with some finesse and a dose of high-mountain character. There are Mao Jian teas with somewhat more dimension and nuance, and others with more strength and body, but if you are looking for a fairly pure tasting Mao Jian at a very attractive price ($7.95 for 4oz.), give this one a try. Perhaps it's the large number of buds in the mix, or perhaps it's something else, but whatever, this one delivers a stimulant buzz. It wouldn't be my first choice for a bedtime drink.
Monday, June 4, 2012
Yishan Hairpoint Imperial (Upton Tea Imports)
The Upton description for this tea is a bit heavy on the superlatives, so I just had to give it a try. Besides, how can you pass up the opportunity to try an "Imperial" tea that costs just $9.80 for 80 grams? Anyway, I opened my tea sample at my decidedly downscale "Imperial Court" and this is what I found.
The medium-to-long twisted dry leaf is a fairly uniform medium-dark color. Once wet, it appears to be made of primarily medium-sized whole leaf, with a few smaller whole leaves and several pieces of larger leaf. The leaf is joined by a fairly small percentage of buds, at least in my sample. The quite aromatic liquor has a pleasant, clean, and slightly vegetal aroma with a mineral note and a medium yellow-green color. In the mouth the tea is balanced and smooth with a pleasant vegetal taste that finishes on a sweet floral note. The aftertaste is moderate in intensity and a little better than average in length, but it seemed just a bit flat to me. With sufficient leaf, this Mao Jian makes a nice second steeping, and a third that's still decent.
This is a good Mao Jian that is arguably a notch better that Upton's Gu Zhang tea and it is certainly one I could enjoy on a regular basis. Unfortunately, Upton's glowing description raised my expectations too high and left me expecting slightly more.
The medium-to-long twisted dry leaf is a fairly uniform medium-dark color. Once wet, it appears to be made of primarily medium-sized whole leaf, with a few smaller whole leaves and several pieces of larger leaf. The leaf is joined by a fairly small percentage of buds, at least in my sample. The quite aromatic liquor has a pleasant, clean, and slightly vegetal aroma with a mineral note and a medium yellow-green color. In the mouth the tea is balanced and smooth with a pleasant vegetal taste that finishes on a sweet floral note. The aftertaste is moderate in intensity and a little better than average in length, but it seemed just a bit flat to me. With sufficient leaf, this Mao Jian makes a nice second steeping, and a third that's still decent.
This is a good Mao Jian that is arguably a notch better that Upton's Gu Zhang tea and it is certainly one I could enjoy on a regular basis. Unfortunately, Upton's glowing description raised my expectations too high and left me expecting slightly more.
Sunday, June 3, 2012
Gu Zhang Mao Jian (Upton Tea Imports)
This Gu Zhang tea from Upton is, by a small margin, the least expensive of the Upton Mao-Jian-style teas reviewed in this series of posts. The moderate-to-long twisted dry leaf has a distinct, fresh "dark green" aroma. The wet leaf shows a combination of medium-sized whole leaf, torn larger leaf, and moderately small buds. The liquor has a pleasant, clean, and fairly strong aroma with sweet grassy and chestnut notes. Its taste is pleasant, clean, and quite flavorful with little of the coarseness that can show up in full-flavored teas at this price. Medium bodied and well balanced, there is just the slightest hint of flatness. The aftertaste is moderately long and pleasant. This tea produces a very nice first steeping, a good second steeping, and not much after that.
Overall, this is a good, solid tea that pairs well with food and should appeal to those who prefer flavor over finesse. Attractively priced at $5.20 for 60 grams, it offers good value, but there are similarly-priced Mao Jian teas that offer somewhat higher quality.
Overall, this is a good, solid tea that pairs well with food and should appeal to those who prefer flavor over finesse. Attractively priced at $5.20 for 60 grams, it offers good value, but there are similarly-priced Mao Jian teas that offer somewhat higher quality.
Sunday, May 27, 2012
Mao Jian Teas
Mao Jian tea is a popular style of Chinese green tea. The Xin Yang Mao Jian of Henan province is the most famous and arguably the best, but high-quality versions of this tea type are produced elsewhere. In general, Mao Jian teas are produced from a young leaf with or without its attached bud. The leaf is rolled around its spine, or its attached bud, in a multiple-step firing and rolling process. The result is a thin and wiry finished leaf with the hairy underside exposed only at the tip. Appropriately, Mao Jian means hairy or fur tip (point) in Mandarin. Mao Jian teas vary in style and quality, but younger pluckings from premium and higher-elevated locations are generally considered the best. I've had versions from very early pickings with leaf no longer than 1.5 cm and a character similar to Bi Lo Chun, to those picked in the late spring or the fall with mature 5 cm leaves, no buds, and a notably strong and coarse character. Compared to Long Jing or Bi Lo Chun, Mao Jian typically has a stronger aroma and flavor that is more grassy and vegetal. Compared to higher fired teas such as Gunpowder or Young Hyson, Mao Jian is generally more floral and grassy, but less round and heavy in the mouth. It's a good choice for those who like a refreshing tea with a lot of flavor.
I've tasted a number of moderately-priced Mao Jian teas recently and have decided to post my impressions of the five that I liked most. Stay tuned.
I've tasted a number of moderately-priced Mao Jian teas recently and have decided to post my impressions of the five that I liked most. Stay tuned.
Friday, May 18, 2012
Golden Snail Yunnan (Strand Tea Company)
I drink Yunnan black teas only occasionally and am far from an expert on the genre. I've had some very good ones and some dreadful ones. Let's see how this one stacks up.
The dry leaf consists of small, tight spirals, many of which are golden. The wet leaf is almost entirely whole leaves and buds with a fairly uniform cocoa-powder brown color. The long buds and long leaves suggest that it's produced from the Yunnan large leaf variety. Clearly, this is a tea that was picked and processed with considerable care. The liquor is a fairly deep brown, with a golden, green-tinged rim. The aroma is quite rich and deep, but with more of the characteristic softness of a Yunnan bud tea than the strong spiciness of a leaf-only grade. I noted some soft and deep fruitiness, some molasses, a hint of cocoa, and a toasty note. There is definitely some dimension and complexity to this aroma. In the mouth it's almost as smooth as a golden bud tea, but with a bit more body, grip, and richness of flavor. I especially like the full mouth feel it delivers. The liquor flavor intensifies notably as you transition into the swallow, showing strong Yunnan and cocoa flavors that persist quite some time in the aftertaste.
This is a very good Yunnan tea, which, at $10.95 for 4 oz., is a good deal for a tea of this quality. It's powerful enough for breakfast, yet smooth and interesting enough for the afternoon. A good choice for those who want a full-flavored Yunnan without the aggressiveness and/or peppery character that often accompany strong Yunnan blacks.
The dry leaf consists of small, tight spirals, many of which are golden. The wet leaf is almost entirely whole leaves and buds with a fairly uniform cocoa-powder brown color. The long buds and long leaves suggest that it's produced from the Yunnan large leaf variety. Clearly, this is a tea that was picked and processed with considerable care. The liquor is a fairly deep brown, with a golden, green-tinged rim. The aroma is quite rich and deep, but with more of the characteristic softness of a Yunnan bud tea than the strong spiciness of a leaf-only grade. I noted some soft and deep fruitiness, some molasses, a hint of cocoa, and a toasty note. There is definitely some dimension and complexity to this aroma. In the mouth it's almost as smooth as a golden bud tea, but with a bit more body, grip, and richness of flavor. I especially like the full mouth feel it delivers. The liquor flavor intensifies notably as you transition into the swallow, showing strong Yunnan and cocoa flavors that persist quite some time in the aftertaste.
This is a very good Yunnan tea, which, at $10.95 for 4 oz., is a good deal for a tea of this quality. It's powerful enough for breakfast, yet smooth and interesting enough for the afternoon. A good choice for those who want a full-flavored Yunnan without the aggressiveness and/or peppery character that often accompany strong Yunnan blacks.
Monday, May 14, 2012
Pasir Nangka OP (Upton Tea Imports)
This is the first pure Java tea I've had, so I had little in the way of expectations. All I know about this tea is that it is grown on an estate in the hills west of Jakarta, and that the estate does produce higher grades than this one.
The medium-to-long twisted dry leaf is quite dark and gives off a mild fruity and spicy scent. The wet leaf shows a variety of oxidation levels, with much of it a very deep red. The liquor is a coppery red, with a fairly full aroma that, for me, immediately calls to mind Tiger Hill Nilgiri or a zesty mid-altitude Ceylon. The aroma also makes me think this tea is from an Assam and not a Chinese tea clone. In the mouth the tea is quite flavorful, smooth, and balanced, with some fruitiness and spiciness, and a medium-full body. Here too, it's a lot like the Tiger Hill tea, only with a bit more spine and a somewhat deeper flavor. The finish has a bit of a tannic grip, with a fairly lingering berry and spice flavor.
This is a flavorful, lively, and fairly direct self-drinker that's well worth the $4.40 for 100g. Some might consider it to be a bit too generic, but I liked it and could drink it on a regular basis. It's not a malty or chocolaty tea, so, even though it will easily stand up to milk, it may not work for those who like Assam. I suspect it could make an excellent iced tea.
The medium-to-long twisted dry leaf is quite dark and gives off a mild fruity and spicy scent. The wet leaf shows a variety of oxidation levels, with much of it a very deep red. The liquor is a coppery red, with a fairly full aroma that, for me, immediately calls to mind Tiger Hill Nilgiri or a zesty mid-altitude Ceylon. The aroma also makes me think this tea is from an Assam and not a Chinese tea clone. In the mouth the tea is quite flavorful, smooth, and balanced, with some fruitiness and spiciness, and a medium-full body. Here too, it's a lot like the Tiger Hill tea, only with a bit more spine and a somewhat deeper flavor. The finish has a bit of a tannic grip, with a fairly lingering berry and spice flavor.
This is a flavorful, lively, and fairly direct self-drinker that's well worth the $4.40 for 100g. Some might consider it to be a bit too generic, but I liked it and could drink it on a regular basis. It's not a malty or chocolaty tea, so, even though it will easily stand up to milk, it may not work for those who like Assam. I suspect it could make an excellent iced tea.
Friday, May 11, 2012
Kosabei Estate Kenya TGFOP (Strand Tea Company)
I'm not all that familiar with Kenya black tea. That shouldn't be too surprising, as much of what is produced is non-orthodox tea intended for blending. As a result, most of the Kenyan tea I've consumed has been in blended and bagged teas, such as Barry's Gold Blend and Williamson's Lifeboat. It doesn't help that I just can't seem to warm up to Irish teas, which are often blends of Assam and Kenyan tea, and which I generally find too blunt and heavy for my taste. By association, I have tended to steer clear of both pure Assam and Kenyan teas. That's a shame, because I'm now starting to realize what I've missed.
Anyway, this Kosabei Estate tea is not what I was expecting. An examination of the leaf tells you that it was plucked and processed with considerable care. My sample had a combination of small whole leaf, broken leaf, tiny whole buds, and a few fine stem pieces. The oxidation was quite light, falling in between a typical black tea and a Mi Lan Dancong Oolong. The tea brews up a deep orange/amber. The pleasant aroma is clean, and on the subtle side, with more floral character than I expect of a Kenya Black, but still retaining that characteristic aroma I identify with Kenya. The taste was similarly restrained and clean, again combining the floral nature with a bright version of the typical Kenya flavor. A healthy dose of astringency finally makes its appearance going into the aftertaste, which is crisp, subtle and fairly long, with a caramel note.
This is a tea for sippers who like to eke out nuance in their teas. If you are looking for a dark, powerful Kenyan tea similar to Lifeboat, this tea will probably seem too light and subtle. If you favor a clean, tight, high-mountain character over forward, lush flavor, give it a try.
Anyway, this Kosabei Estate tea is not what I was expecting. An examination of the leaf tells you that it was plucked and processed with considerable care. My sample had a combination of small whole leaf, broken leaf, tiny whole buds, and a few fine stem pieces. The oxidation was quite light, falling in between a typical black tea and a Mi Lan Dancong Oolong. The tea brews up a deep orange/amber. The pleasant aroma is clean, and on the subtle side, with more floral character than I expect of a Kenya Black, but still retaining that characteristic aroma I identify with Kenya. The taste was similarly restrained and clean, again combining the floral nature with a bright version of the typical Kenya flavor. A healthy dose of astringency finally makes its appearance going into the aftertaste, which is crisp, subtle and fairly long, with a caramel note.
This is a tea for sippers who like to eke out nuance in their teas. If you are looking for a dark, powerful Kenyan tea similar to Lifeboat, this tea will probably seem too light and subtle. If you favor a clean, tight, high-mountain character over forward, lush flavor, give it a try.
Monday, May 7, 2012
Kuterai Vetti BFOP (Upton)
Today I'm jumping back to southern India. While the Nilgiri teas are widely considered to be the best of the southern Indian teas, a lot of tea is produced in the western Ghats south of Nilgiri in both Tamil Nadu and Kerala. On occasion, these teas will be mistakenly grouped with or labeled as Nilgiri tea. Those available to the internet shopper include: the Singampatti Estate teas, especially their Oothu; those of POABS; various Munnar district teas; and today's selection. Compared to Nilgiri tea, these teas are generally heavier, softer, and sometimes more spicy, and with much less in the way of the citrus, floral, and herbaceous notes. Their texture and balance generally leans more toward Assam.
The look of the dry leaf of this Kuterai Vetti is what you'd expect of a FBOP, and, when wet, it shows a fairly full oxidation with a vibrant brown/red color. The liquor brews up a red-tinged brown and has a fullish aroma that has some resemblance to Nilgiri, but is deeper and darker, with notes of apple and dark spice, and with little in the way of citrus and herb. In the mouth, the tea is soft, full and quite flavorful. It's heavier and flatter than a Nilgiri, and closer to an Assam in texture and weight. While it can get a bit tannic with heavy brewing, it remains decidedly more fat than brisk. This tea has a sweet and spicy aftertaste that is surprisingly long.
While not particularly elegant or nuanced, it's a well made, solid, and tasty tea, with some dimension. For the price ($7.60 for 250 grams), it's an excellent value for those looking for a fuller-bodied Indian tea.
The look of the dry leaf of this Kuterai Vetti is what you'd expect of a FBOP, and, when wet, it shows a fairly full oxidation with a vibrant brown/red color. The liquor brews up a red-tinged brown and has a fullish aroma that has some resemblance to Nilgiri, but is deeper and darker, with notes of apple and dark spice, and with little in the way of citrus and herb. In the mouth, the tea is soft, full and quite flavorful. It's heavier and flatter than a Nilgiri, and closer to an Assam in texture and weight. While it can get a bit tannic with heavy brewing, it remains decidedly more fat than brisk. This tea has a sweet and spicy aftertaste that is surprisingly long.
While not particularly elegant or nuanced, it's a well made, solid, and tasty tea, with some dimension. For the price ($7.60 for 250 grams), it's an excellent value for those looking for a fuller-bodied Indian tea.
Sunday, May 6, 2012
China FOP Organic (ZK16) (Upton Tea Imports)
The first time I tried this tea from a sample, I was smitten. I remember it being so soft and smooth with a sweet fruity, and wine-like flavor. Since reordering, my opinion has shifted. It still tastes very much like that sample, but it seems less full and flatter to me now. It's probably me and not the tea.
Upton doesn't give any information about the origins of this tea, but they do mention that it has "the character of a non-smoky Keemun." I think that's a fair way to describe it, but actually it reminds me a bit more of a south Fujian red tea. So while this is not necessarily a Fujian red, it's close enough that I'm reviewing it with the bona fide ones.
The dry leaf consists of small rolled OP pieces with a generous amount of light tips. The dry-leaf aroma is similar to Upton's Wuyi Golden Monkey, but just a bit sweeter and less roasted. The liquor brews up medium red, and gives off a fairly generous and pleasantly soft aroma featuring sweet cherry berry, with a bit of wine, some fresh bright tobacco, and a light toasty note. In the mouth, the tea is very soft and gentle, with wine and berry flavors. It's almost impossible to make this tea astringent, and that's a good thing as you'll need a very generous amount of leaf for it to shine. The berry flavors continue into a fairly soft and moderately persistent aftertaste that finishes with a wine-like tang.
This tea is soft with very little spine. It could be a good fit for those who like bud teas, or for those who like a soft, fruity, and sweet tea, but it will definitely come across as flat to those who are accustomed to the backbone and briskness of a Ceylon or Kenyan tea.
As mentioned above, this tea really needs a bit more leaf than you might think to get a good mouth feel and generous flavor. I've found that I use about 40% more leaf with this tea than I do with many other teas, but, when I do so, I get a rewarding cup.
Upton doesn't give any information about the origins of this tea, but they do mention that it has "the character of a non-smoky Keemun." I think that's a fair way to describe it, but actually it reminds me a bit more of a south Fujian red tea. So while this is not necessarily a Fujian red, it's close enough that I'm reviewing it with the bona fide ones.
The dry leaf consists of small rolled OP pieces with a generous amount of light tips. The dry-leaf aroma is similar to Upton's Wuyi Golden Monkey, but just a bit sweeter and less roasted. The liquor brews up medium red, and gives off a fairly generous and pleasantly soft aroma featuring sweet cherry berry, with a bit of wine, some fresh bright tobacco, and a light toasty note. In the mouth, the tea is very soft and gentle, with wine and berry flavors. It's almost impossible to make this tea astringent, and that's a good thing as you'll need a very generous amount of leaf for it to shine. The berry flavors continue into a fairly soft and moderately persistent aftertaste that finishes with a wine-like tang.
This tea is soft with very little spine. It could be a good fit for those who like bud teas, or for those who like a soft, fruity, and sweet tea, but it will definitely come across as flat to those who are accustomed to the backbone and briskness of a Ceylon or Kenyan tea.
As mentioned above, this tea really needs a bit more leaf than you might think to get a good mouth feel and generous flavor. I've found that I use about 40% more leaf with this tea than I do with many other teas, but, when I do so, I get a rewarding cup.
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Bai Lin Gongfu (Strand Tea Company)
This tea is quite a bit different than the last three Fujian reds I reviewed. It appears to have received less baking and is not in the least bit smoky. The oxidation is more uniform and less aggressive too. The leaf is less broken and with whole plump buds, giving one the impression that it was produced with more care and perhaps in smaller batches.
The dry leaf consists of small wiry, well-twisted leaf, with a moderate amount of golden strands. The wet leaf is a vital-looking middle brown, with a noticeable amount of buds. The liquor is a medium amber-brown that is quite cloudy with tiny tea hairs. The nice aroma is cleaner and more floral than many Fujian reds, with notes of sweet apple, cinnamon, malt, and cocoa powder. The tea has a good mouth feel, seeming a bit more viscous than most, in part, no doubt, the result of the floating tea hairs. The flavors follow the aroma, being a bit more floral than most and having a healthy dose of cocoa and malt. Like most Fujian reds, it is sweeter than average, but with more of a cocoa/caramel flavor than the deep berry flavor of more baked and oxidized teas. The tea is smooth going into the moderately persistent aftertaste, with cocoa and nutty/malty elements, and a bit of tannic grip and tang to anchor the flavors.
Overall, this tea delivers an awful lot of quality for the price ($6.95 for 4 oz.). Though not widely available, there are higher-grade versions of this tea (earlier plucking, more golden buds), but those teas are also much more expensive, and I'm quite sure, not so terribly much better.
If you purchase this tea, use the Strand brewing instructions. It really does well at 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 6 minutes.
The dry leaf consists of small wiry, well-twisted leaf, with a moderate amount of golden strands. The wet leaf is a vital-looking middle brown, with a noticeable amount of buds. The liquor is a medium amber-brown that is quite cloudy with tiny tea hairs. The nice aroma is cleaner and more floral than many Fujian reds, with notes of sweet apple, cinnamon, malt, and cocoa powder. The tea has a good mouth feel, seeming a bit more viscous than most, in part, no doubt, the result of the floating tea hairs. The flavors follow the aroma, being a bit more floral than most and having a healthy dose of cocoa and malt. Like most Fujian reds, it is sweeter than average, but with more of a cocoa/caramel flavor than the deep berry flavor of more baked and oxidized teas. The tea is smooth going into the moderately persistent aftertaste, with cocoa and nutty/malty elements, and a bit of tannic grip and tang to anchor the flavors.
Overall, this tea delivers an awful lot of quality for the price ($6.95 for 4 oz.). Though not widely available, there are higher-grade versions of this tea (earlier plucking, more golden buds), but those teas are also much more expensive, and I'm quite sure, not so terribly much better.
If you purchase this tea, use the Strand brewing instructions. It really does well at 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 6 minutes.
Friday, May 4, 2012
Wuyi Golden Monkey (Upton Tea Imports)
I'm starting to see a pattern with some Fujian red teas, and especially with those from Upton. That is: a tea seems weak with normal brewing, but add quite a bit more leaf, steep 50% longer, and the result is a big increase in flavor and mouth feel, but without the penalty of excessive astringency or bitterness. Is this an expected characteristic of a certain subgroup of Fujian red teas? Or, are these inherently weaker examples of their kind that salvage nicely with heavy brewing? I'm not sure, but my guess is the truth lies somewhere in between.
Anyway, this Golden Monkey fits the above profile. Brewed strongly, it's a nice tea. The dry leaf is comprised of fairly small leaf pieces with a modest amount of golden tips. The wet leaf shows mostly small pieces with an average oxidation. The aroma has a nice balance of classic Fujian red aromas, with a bit of deep cherry/apricot fruitiness, a bit of cocoa, and a toasty hint. In the mouth the tea is pleasantly soft, with some winy deep berry flavors, malt, and a little chew tobacco. Similar flavors follow in the reasonably persistent aftertaste.
At this price ($11.80 for 125 grams), you can't expect this to be one of the best Golden Monkeys, and it isn't. However, it is a good example of Fujian congou, bringing together typical regional flavors and aromas into a pleasant and soft brew. Expect to use extra leaf and time to get the most from this tea.
Anyway, this Golden Monkey fits the above profile. Brewed strongly, it's a nice tea. The dry leaf is comprised of fairly small leaf pieces with a modest amount of golden tips. The wet leaf shows mostly small pieces with an average oxidation. The aroma has a nice balance of classic Fujian red aromas, with a bit of deep cherry/apricot fruitiness, a bit of cocoa, and a toasty hint. In the mouth the tea is pleasantly soft, with some winy deep berry flavors, malt, and a little chew tobacco. Similar flavors follow in the reasonably persistent aftertaste.
At this price ($11.80 for 125 grams), you can't expect this to be one of the best Golden Monkeys, and it isn't. However, it is a good example of Fujian congou, bringing together typical regional flavors and aromas into a pleasant and soft brew. Expect to use extra leaf and time to get the most from this tea.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Panyang Congou Select ZP22 (Upton)
UPDATE:
After making this tea several times using somewhat more leaf than normal, I came to the conclusion that it was hopelessly weak and too smoky. So, I went out on a limb and used over twice as much leaf as I normally would. With most tea, this would result in a liquor too tannic and bitter to be enjoyable, but it was just what this tea needed. So prepared, it came into balance with attractive floral and fruit aromas matching up to the smoke. The mouth feel improved greatly and there was much more fruit and cocoa in the taste. With the stronger brew, it's a nice tea that I can recommend, but not one I'd probably purchase again. Too bad my sample pack is totally spent. Oh well, maybe I'll order one more sample in the future and give it another go.
ORIGINAL POST:
After enjoying Upton's basic Congou Panyang, I was excited to try this select version, which, at $8.80 for 125 grams, is twice as expensive. Will it be twice as good?
It should be noted that this tea (ZP22) is a fairly recent addition to the Upton catalog and apparently replaces an earlier, like-named tea (ZP20).
The promising-looking dry leaf consists of medium-sized twisted leaf with some light tips and a noticeably smoky aroma. The somewhat light and matte brown of the tender wet leaf segments suggests a modest oxidation. The aroma of the medium orange-amber liquor is dominated by a smokiness that has both a pine and hardwood character. Some sweet fruit and floral notes can be detected beneath the smokiness, but the balance is strongly in favor of smoke. A similar thing happens in the flavor, were the smokiness is dominant. While the tea seems to possess a smooth, balanced and pleasant character, to my taste it is not sufficiently strong to stand up to the smoke. It appears that this tea was made in a style similar to a Zheng Shan Xiou Zhong (Bohea) but with a base tea too delicate for the task. The moderately-long aftertaste is the most impressive part of the tea, with a strong cocoa note, a nice tang, and typical Fujian red flavors that match up well with the smokiness.
Keep in mind that I bring my biases to this review. I'm not a huge fan of "tarry" Lapsang Souchong, but will occasionally indulge in a lighter-smoked Zheng Shan Xiou Zhong. If you like smoky teas and are looking for a budget Bohea, this may be a good candidate. To get the best from this tea, use plenty of leaf, steep a bit longer, and keep the water off the boil.
After making this tea several times using somewhat more leaf than normal, I came to the conclusion that it was hopelessly weak and too smoky. So, I went out on a limb and used over twice as much leaf as I normally would. With most tea, this would result in a liquor too tannic and bitter to be enjoyable, but it was just what this tea needed. So prepared, it came into balance with attractive floral and fruit aromas matching up to the smoke. The mouth feel improved greatly and there was much more fruit and cocoa in the taste. With the stronger brew, it's a nice tea that I can recommend, but not one I'd probably purchase again. Too bad my sample pack is totally spent. Oh well, maybe I'll order one more sample in the future and give it another go.
ORIGINAL POST:
After enjoying Upton's basic Congou Panyang, I was excited to try this select version, which, at $8.80 for 125 grams, is twice as expensive. Will it be twice as good?
It should be noted that this tea (ZP22) is a fairly recent addition to the Upton catalog and apparently replaces an earlier, like-named tea (ZP20).
The promising-looking dry leaf consists of medium-sized twisted leaf with some light tips and a noticeably smoky aroma. The somewhat light and matte brown of the tender wet leaf segments suggests a modest oxidation. The aroma of the medium orange-amber liquor is dominated by a smokiness that has both a pine and hardwood character. Some sweet fruit and floral notes can be detected beneath the smokiness, but the balance is strongly in favor of smoke. A similar thing happens in the flavor, were the smokiness is dominant. While the tea seems to possess a smooth, balanced and pleasant character, to my taste it is not sufficiently strong to stand up to the smoke. It appears that this tea was made in a style similar to a Zheng Shan Xiou Zhong (Bohea) but with a base tea too delicate for the task. The moderately-long aftertaste is the most impressive part of the tea, with a strong cocoa note, a nice tang, and typical Fujian red flavors that match up well with the smokiness.
Keep in mind that I bring my biases to this review. I'm not a huge fan of "tarry" Lapsang Souchong, but will occasionally indulge in a lighter-smoked Zheng Shan Xiou Zhong. If you like smoky teas and are looking for a budget Bohea, this may be a good candidate. To get the best from this tea, use plenty of leaf, steep a bit longer, and keep the water off the boil.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Congou Panyang (Upton)
This is a tea that's reasonably priced and generally gets good reviews, so I decided to give it a try. At $4.40 for 125 grams, it's the cheapest of the batch of teas I'll be covering over the next few days, and not one I was expecting much from.
Well, this is actually a surprisingly good tea. The dry leaf is dark and wiry, with a dark sweet aroma with cocoa and smoky notes. The liquor is a fairly dark red-brown, and is a bit darker than I typically associate with Fujian congou. The aroma of the liquor is fairly full, with a bunch of things going on. There is a dark berry aroma there that reminds me of a combination of fresh and smoked cherry-flavored pipe tobacco, a dose of cocoa powder, some funky barnyard stuff, and a balancing, but noticeable smokiness that seems more a result of a long, full baking than any smoking over pine. In the mouth the tea seems fairly robust, with medium-to-full body, and flavors that I'd expect based on the aroma: dark berry, cocoa, barnyard, and smoke. I'd expect a tea at this price to be a noticeably flat and dull, but they've done a pretty good job here, with just a hint of the flatness. The aftertaste is fairly decent, with a dark berry note, some smoke, and cocoa.
This tea is a good example of how crafty processing can do a lot with decent leaf. This is not a terribly pure tea, and probably won't appeal to those who value handmade delicate teas, but if a stout tea with a bunch of funky complexity sounds appealing to you, try this one.
Well, this is actually a surprisingly good tea. The dry leaf is dark and wiry, with a dark sweet aroma with cocoa and smoky notes. The liquor is a fairly dark red-brown, and is a bit darker than I typically associate with Fujian congou. The aroma of the liquor is fairly full, with a bunch of things going on. There is a dark berry aroma there that reminds me of a combination of fresh and smoked cherry-flavored pipe tobacco, a dose of cocoa powder, some funky barnyard stuff, and a balancing, but noticeable smokiness that seems more a result of a long, full baking than any smoking over pine. In the mouth the tea seems fairly robust, with medium-to-full body, and flavors that I'd expect based on the aroma: dark berry, cocoa, barnyard, and smoke. I'd expect a tea at this price to be a noticeably flat and dull, but they've done a pretty good job here, with just a hint of the flatness. The aftertaste is fairly decent, with a dark berry note, some smoke, and cocoa.
This tea is a good example of how crafty processing can do a lot with decent leaf. This is not a terribly pure tea, and probably won't appeal to those who value handmade delicate teas, but if a stout tea with a bunch of funky complexity sounds appealing to you, try this one.
Fujian Red Teas
I'm a big fan of the Oolong teas of the Fujian province of southeast China, but only an occasional drinker of the red (black) teas of this region. Hence, my knowledge of Fujian reds is modest at best. This region is generally credited with the creation of the first red tea exported to the West, and modern examples of this original tea are often marketed as Bohea tea. Today, it's well-known for several red teas, including: the Pan Yang, Zheng He (Ching Wo), and Bai Lin congou teas; the various smoked teas including Zheng Shan Xiou Zhong and lesser Lapsang Souchong variations; the Golden Monkey; and the very expensive and rare Precious Eyebrow teas. The well-known red teas are all produced in the northern (Min Bei) portion of the province, but very good examples of red tea are also produced in the southern (Min Nan) area. While Fujian red teas are consumed by the domestic (Chinese) market, the majority of production is exported.
The next few posts will cover some moderately-priced Fujian red teas from Upton Tea Imports and The Strand Tea Company.
The next few posts will cover some moderately-priced Fujian red teas from Upton Tea Imports and The Strand Tea Company.
Monday, April 23, 2012
Wuyi Shuixian (Strand Tea Company)
Shui Xian Oolong tea is grown in many areas of southeastern China, but most notably in Fujian and Guangdong provinces. While green balled versions in the style of Tie Guan Yin are produced in southern Fujian, the majority of Shui Xian is generously oxidized, formed into twisted strips, and fully baked. Much of the Shui Xian production consists of cheap, flat-tasting tea that's heavily processed in an attempt to add character where little exists. On the other hand, some fine and pricey examples do exist and include: Wuyi Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) Shui Xian tea, Wuyi Lao Cong (Old Bush) Shui Xian, and high-grown versions processed as Phoenix Dancong in northern Guangdong province. Unfortunately, in between these extremes, pickings can be thin. It's really hard to find a very good, but relatively inexpensive Shui Xian.
Northern Fujian province (Min Bei) is known for its Shui Xian, and that from the Wuyi Mountains is considered the best of all the Min Bei. The very best of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown in the delimited Zheng Yan (genuine rock) area, along with all of the famous Yan Cha (Rock Teas), such as Da Hong Pao, Rou Gui, Shui Jin Gui, Tie Lou Han, and Bai Ji Guan. Most of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown outside of the Zheng Yan zone, and the degree to which these teas approach the genuine rock article will vary. With careful processing, those from the surrounding areas with similar soil composition and climate can be very fine, and may be marketed as Ban Yan (half rock) tea. A well-made Ban Yan may be far better than a sloppily handled Zheng Yan that costs much more. In reality, the name Wuyi or Wu Yi does not guarantee much, and one can easily find cheap and awful "Wuyi" tea of questionable provenance.
Wuyi Shui Xian Oolong processing spans the spectrum, from lightly oxidized leaf with mostly green centers and oxblood edges and blotches, to leaf that is oxidized like a black tea. In addition, Wuyi Oolong undergoes a baking process, either over charcoal or in an electric oven. Shorter baking retains floral notes, and longer baking increases depth and fruitiness. As a result, almost all Wuyi Oolongs have at least a minor toasty note, and some, unfortunately, are roasted to a crisp. Tea marketed as traditional usually undergoes a moderate-to-fuller oxidation, and a longer baking. A modern or light-roast style, goes lightly on both oxidation and roasting. Many traditional-style teas may receive a more complex fermentation/oxidation that yields earthy complexities.
And now, finally, we get to today's tea. I like Wuyi teas a lot. Unfortunately, as with all the famous teas of China, the really good stuff is prohibitively expensive, and very difficult to procure. I've been lucky to have been gifted some of the real deal by Chinese friends and have purchased modest amounts of decent stuff from Chinese and US-based sources. But, these are not teas I can afford to drink every day. I've been looking for a good, moderately-priced Wuyi Shui Xian, but I've been mostly disappointed. I received a sample from Jack at Strand, not expecting much considering that the tea goes for $8.95 for 4 oz., and compared it to two teas I consider good examples in the light-roasted style: Seven Cups Premium Wuyi Narcisus, Wuyishan Forrest Park Tea Company Zheng Yan Shui Xian (Harvard Stars).
Shui Xian leaves are usually a bit bigger than the other Wuyi cultivars, and the mostly intact leaves of this Strand example were just a bit larger than those from my two benchmark teas, both of which were spring teas. The dry leaf scent was a bit more straightforward and a bit less fruity than from the benchmarks, but pleasantly full and with a light toasty note. Once steeped, the tea produced a medium amber liquor and was just a bit lighter in color than either benchmark. The wet leaf showed a fairly light oxidation, a bit less than the Seven Cups, and the baking seemed fairly similar with all three, with the leaves unfurling at approximately the same rate. The generous aroma showed strong Shui Xian character, and was notably floral with a pleasant toasty note. The benchmarks, while not quite as strong, were perhaps a bit classier with more stone fruit and honey and a more integrated toasty complexity. In all cases, the flavor followed the aroma. The Strand was more direct, more intensely floral, but less honeyed, and tasting a bit more like an autumn tea with just a hint of coarseness. All had aftertastes of moderate strength and persistence, but I did like the slightly greater tang in the Strand. None of these teas showed a lot of the thickness before the swallow that good Zheng Yan can have, and all three had a good second steeping, but not a lot after that.
This may not sound like a resoundingly good review of the Strand sample, but I was comparing it to teas that cost more than twice as much. This is a carefully processed tea of high quality that's offered at an exceptional price. It's a Shui Xian I'd drink on a regular basis and a tea I'd recommend to those who'd like to try a lighter style of Wuyi tea at an affordable price.
Northern Fujian province (Min Bei) is known for its Shui Xian, and that from the Wuyi Mountains is considered the best of all the Min Bei. The very best of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown in the delimited Zheng Yan (genuine rock) area, along with all of the famous Yan Cha (Rock Teas), such as Da Hong Pao, Rou Gui, Shui Jin Gui, Tie Lou Han, and Bai Ji Guan. Most of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown outside of the Zheng Yan zone, and the degree to which these teas approach the genuine rock article will vary. With careful processing, those from the surrounding areas with similar soil composition and climate can be very fine, and may be marketed as Ban Yan (half rock) tea. A well-made Ban Yan may be far better than a sloppily handled Zheng Yan that costs much more. In reality, the name Wuyi or Wu Yi does not guarantee much, and one can easily find cheap and awful "Wuyi" tea of questionable provenance.
Wuyi Shui Xian Oolong processing spans the spectrum, from lightly oxidized leaf with mostly green centers and oxblood edges and blotches, to leaf that is oxidized like a black tea. In addition, Wuyi Oolong undergoes a baking process, either over charcoal or in an electric oven. Shorter baking retains floral notes, and longer baking increases depth and fruitiness. As a result, almost all Wuyi Oolongs have at least a minor toasty note, and some, unfortunately, are roasted to a crisp. Tea marketed as traditional usually undergoes a moderate-to-fuller oxidation, and a longer baking. A modern or light-roast style, goes lightly on both oxidation and roasting. Many traditional-style teas may receive a more complex fermentation/oxidation that yields earthy complexities.
And now, finally, we get to today's tea. I like Wuyi teas a lot. Unfortunately, as with all the famous teas of China, the really good stuff is prohibitively expensive, and very difficult to procure. I've been lucky to have been gifted some of the real deal by Chinese friends and have purchased modest amounts of decent stuff from Chinese and US-based sources. But, these are not teas I can afford to drink every day. I've been looking for a good, moderately-priced Wuyi Shui Xian, but I've been mostly disappointed. I received a sample from Jack at Strand, not expecting much considering that the tea goes for $8.95 for 4 oz., and compared it to two teas I consider good examples in the light-roasted style: Seven Cups Premium Wuyi Narcisus, Wuyishan Forrest Park Tea Company Zheng Yan Shui Xian (Harvard Stars).
Shui Xian leaves are usually a bit bigger than the other Wuyi cultivars, and the mostly intact leaves of this Strand example were just a bit larger than those from my two benchmark teas, both of which were spring teas. The dry leaf scent was a bit more straightforward and a bit less fruity than from the benchmarks, but pleasantly full and with a light toasty note. Once steeped, the tea produced a medium amber liquor and was just a bit lighter in color than either benchmark. The wet leaf showed a fairly light oxidation, a bit less than the Seven Cups, and the baking seemed fairly similar with all three, with the leaves unfurling at approximately the same rate. The generous aroma showed strong Shui Xian character, and was notably floral with a pleasant toasty note. The benchmarks, while not quite as strong, were perhaps a bit classier with more stone fruit and honey and a more integrated toasty complexity. In all cases, the flavor followed the aroma. The Strand was more direct, more intensely floral, but less honeyed, and tasting a bit more like an autumn tea with just a hint of coarseness. All had aftertastes of moderate strength and persistence, but I did like the slightly greater tang in the Strand. None of these teas showed a lot of the thickness before the swallow that good Zheng Yan can have, and all three had a good second steeping, but not a lot after that.
This may not sound like a resoundingly good review of the Strand sample, but I was comparing it to teas that cost more than twice as much. This is a carefully processed tea of high quality that's offered at an exceptional price. It's a Shui Xian I'd drink on a regular basis and a tea I'd recommend to those who'd like to try a lighter style of Wuyi tea at an affordable price.
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Nilgiri Wrap-up
In all, I tasted 12 Nilgiri teas for the last round of notes. There were no green or CTC (crush, tear, curl) teas represented, even though plenty of each is produced. I skipped some notable estates, including Glendale, Dunsandle, Korakundah, Nonsuch,and Corsley. Nevertheless, the tasted teas represent a reasonable cross section of the genre, i.e. Nilgiri orthodox black and Oolong teas. Keep in mind that all of the tasted teas cost less than $10.00 US for 4 oz. (112 grams), so even the best of the lot were in the medium-priced range--at least by my reckoning. Below are my observations and recommendations.
There is no one prototypical Nilgiri black tea. At the lighter end of the spectrum, they strongly resemble a first-flush Darjeeling, and at the darker end, a stout Ceylon. None of the tasted teas will liquor up as strongly as an English Breakfast blend, and many would be considered medium-bodied teas at best. If you're looking for a substitute for a thick Assam or a powerful Kenyan tea, a Nilgiri tea will likely disappoint. If you are searching for a lighter liquoring tea with pronounced aroma and taste, and a refreshing, tangy finish, try a Nilgiri. On average, Nilgiri teas are most like high-grown Ceylons, but with more fruit and tang, and less astringency. Some are close to an Uva Ceylon, but with the minty flavor being replaced with something more like marjoram. Overall, I'm quite satisfied with the quality of orthodox Nilgiri teas, but some do come across as quite straightforward, with little in the way of nuance or dimension. To my taste, those produced in a more Darjeeling-like style take best advantage of the leaf. Oolong processing also seems to work well.
There are several reasons why your opinion of a tea may vary widely from mine. First, my tea preferences may be very different, or I may not be as discerning as you. Second, estates may produce several like-named teas, each from a different harvest, or location, or plant clone. Also, different retailers may seem to carry the same tea, but their stocks may be from different harvests or grades. OK, enough of the disclaimer stuff. Here are my picks by category:
Overall favorite: Burnside Special OP
Light-liquoring favorite: Parkside
Strong-liquoring favorite: Tiger Hill
Most refreshing: Iyerpadi OP
Most complex: Thiashola
Best for iced tea: Iyerpadi BOP
Oolong Surprise: Chamraj Oolong
I also liked both of the flavorful and characterful Kairbetta teas, but neither tolerated sloppy brewing well.
There is no one prototypical Nilgiri black tea. At the lighter end of the spectrum, they strongly resemble a first-flush Darjeeling, and at the darker end, a stout Ceylon. None of the tasted teas will liquor up as strongly as an English Breakfast blend, and many would be considered medium-bodied teas at best. If you're looking for a substitute for a thick Assam or a powerful Kenyan tea, a Nilgiri tea will likely disappoint. If you are searching for a lighter liquoring tea with pronounced aroma and taste, and a refreshing, tangy finish, try a Nilgiri. On average, Nilgiri teas are most like high-grown Ceylons, but with more fruit and tang, and less astringency. Some are close to an Uva Ceylon, but with the minty flavor being replaced with something more like marjoram. Overall, I'm quite satisfied with the quality of orthodox Nilgiri teas, but some do come across as quite straightforward, with little in the way of nuance or dimension. To my taste, those produced in a more Darjeeling-like style take best advantage of the leaf. Oolong processing also seems to work well.
There are several reasons why your opinion of a tea may vary widely from mine. First, my tea preferences may be very different, or I may not be as discerning as you. Second, estates may produce several like-named teas, each from a different harvest, or location, or plant clone. Also, different retailers may seem to carry the same tea, but their stocks may be from different harvests or grades. OK, enough of the disclaimer stuff. Here are my picks by category:
Overall favorite: Burnside Special OP
Light-liquoring favorite: Parkside
Strong-liquoring favorite: Tiger Hill
Most refreshing: Iyerpadi OP
Most complex: Thiashola
Best for iced tea: Iyerpadi BOP
Oolong Surprise: Chamraj Oolong
I also liked both of the flavorful and characterful Kairbetta teas, but neither tolerated sloppy brewing well.
Monday, April 16, 2012
Burnside Special OP Nilgiri (Chado)
I was immediately smitten when I tried a Burnside tea several years ago. It was the tea that launched my interest in the region. So, I was excited to try this Special OP and see if it measured up to that first love. I'm happy to report that this tea is even better.
The long and wiry dry leaf is quite fragrant and pleasantly fruity. Once wet, it is clear that this tea has received a careful oxidation, as there is a wide range of variegated color to in the leaf, from deep red to a bright, dark olive green. The liquor is a fairly brilliant red-amber, with a pronounced and balanced aroma featuring fruity and floral notes. The tea is medium to medium-light in body, but very flavorful, with a bunch of things going on. There are hints of cherry-like fruitiness, soft floral notes that I associate with green tea, and a nice citrus tang leading into the tasty aftertaste.
This tea is a bit more expensive (4 oz. @ $7.18) than many other Nilgiri OP teas, but it is, in my opinion, well worth it. Aromatic, flavorful, and balanced, this very enjoyable tea is near the top of my list of favorite teas.
The long and wiry dry leaf is quite fragrant and pleasantly fruity. Once wet, it is clear that this tea has received a careful oxidation, as there is a wide range of variegated color to in the leaf, from deep red to a bright, dark olive green. The liquor is a fairly brilliant red-amber, with a pronounced and balanced aroma featuring fruity and floral notes. The tea is medium to medium-light in body, but very flavorful, with a bunch of things going on. There are hints of cherry-like fruitiness, soft floral notes that I associate with green tea, and a nice citrus tang leading into the tasty aftertaste.
This tea is a bit more expensive (4 oz. @ $7.18) than many other Nilgiri OP teas, but it is, in my opinion, well worth it. Aromatic, flavorful, and balanced, this very enjoyable tea is near the top of my list of favorite teas.
Sunday, April 15, 2012
Parkside SFTGFOP Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)
UPDATE:
I tasted this tea again a few days after this review and realized that my notes did not do the tea justice. In fact, it was my senses that were apparently on the subtle side. This tea has a good deal more aroma, flavor, and nuance than I had thought. In fact, it's quite aromatic and flavorful, while still having a rather refined and subtle nature, and, as it turns out, not so different than the Kairbetta SFTGFOP after all. Take this as a lesson in the fallibility of this reviewer.
ORIGINAL REVIEW:
There are two teas in this series of Nilgiris tasting notes that invite comparison to a first-flush Darjeeling: the Kairbetta SFTGFOP and this tea. The two, however, could hardly be more different.
This tea appears to be a blend of two different teas: moderately oxidized curled leaf, and green OP-sized flat flakes. The dry-leaf aroma bears a strong resemblance to Darjeeling.
The tea brews up amber and has a very pleasant, but subtle aroma. It's hard for me to describe the aroma other than to say that it is a very mild representation of classic Nilgiri components, along with a bit of apricot, some nuttiness, and soft grassy floral notes. This is a fairly light-bodied tea, that comes across as soft, smooth and full in the mouth. The flavor is sweet and mild, tasting, not surprisingly, like a cross between a classic light-liquoring Nilgiri black and a green tea. The tea transitions smoothly into a modest aftertaste, with just a hint of crispness.
As described, you might get the impression that it's a plain and indifferent tea, but it's not really. It's a subtle tea, just as a good Long Jing is a fairly subtle tea. Both comfort and refresh, while leaving you wanting more. If you like a tea that hits you over the head with character, then definitely skip this one. If subtlety is something you value, this one might charm you, as it has me.
I tasted this tea again a few days after this review and realized that my notes did not do the tea justice. In fact, it was my senses that were apparently on the subtle side. This tea has a good deal more aroma, flavor, and nuance than I had thought. In fact, it's quite aromatic and flavorful, while still having a rather refined and subtle nature, and, as it turns out, not so different than the Kairbetta SFTGFOP after all. Take this as a lesson in the fallibility of this reviewer.
ORIGINAL REVIEW:
There are two teas in this series of Nilgiris tasting notes that invite comparison to a first-flush Darjeeling: the Kairbetta SFTGFOP and this tea. The two, however, could hardly be more different.
This tea appears to be a blend of two different teas: moderately oxidized curled leaf, and green OP-sized flat flakes. The dry-leaf aroma bears a strong resemblance to Darjeeling.
The tea brews up amber and has a very pleasant, but subtle aroma. It's hard for me to describe the aroma other than to say that it is a very mild representation of classic Nilgiri components, along with a bit of apricot, some nuttiness, and soft grassy floral notes. This is a fairly light-bodied tea, that comes across as soft, smooth and full in the mouth. The flavor is sweet and mild, tasting, not surprisingly, like a cross between a classic light-liquoring Nilgiri black and a green tea. The tea transitions smoothly into a modest aftertaste, with just a hint of crispness.
As described, you might get the impression that it's a plain and indifferent tea, but it's not really. It's a subtle tea, just as a good Long Jing is a fairly subtle tea. Both comfort and refresh, while leaving you wanting more. If you like a tea that hits you over the head with character, then definitely skip this one. If subtlety is something you value, this one might charm you, as it has me.
Saturday, April 14, 2012
Kairbetta BOP (Upton Tea Imports)
Nilgiri black teas are generally considered easy to brew, relatively low in astringency, and almost never bitter. Kairbetta, it seems, is the exception, producing teas that are strong in aroma and flavor, but with a tendency toward excessive astringency and bitterness. I like this BOP very much, but it is bit of bugger to brew. When you get the brewing right, it's a great cup. When you brew it too strongly, it's bitter with a mouth-puckering astringency. When you go shy on the water temp or amount of leaf, you can loose much of the intensity and range of the aromatics.
When the brewing is nailed, this tea has a clean, pronounced aroma, with notes of peach, almond, and flowers. The liquor is flavorful, with a bit of a tannic grip and flavors that are hard to describe, but mirror the aroma. The aftertaste is persistent, due in no small part to the tea's gripping tannin.
If you're looking for a big, fat, dark tea, skip this one. If you're willing to monkey around with the brewing and favor a flavorful, cleansing, and lighter-bodied tea, this one could be charming. I found somewhat short steeping times and brewing temperatures above 180 but below 190 degrees Fahrenheit to work best. Your experience may differ.
When the brewing is nailed, this tea has a clean, pronounced aroma, with notes of peach, almond, and flowers. The liquor is flavorful, with a bit of a tannic grip and flavors that are hard to describe, but mirror the aroma. The aftertaste is persistent, due in no small part to the tea's gripping tannin.
If you're looking for a big, fat, dark tea, skip this one. If you're willing to monkey around with the brewing and favor a flavorful, cleansing, and lighter-bodied tea, this one could be charming. I found somewhat short steeping times and brewing temperatures above 180 but below 190 degrees Fahrenheit to work best. Your experience may differ.
Friday, April 13, 2012
Chamraj TGFOP Nilgiri (Chado)
I really wanted to like this tea. Chamraj is a big and important Nilgiri estate and part of the United Nilgiri Tea Estates group, which also owns the popular Korakundah estate.
This is a fairly button-downed tea, with a serious demeanor. The modest aroma is slightly toasty and has a somewhat "darker" aroma that I associate with a more oxidized leaf. It's pretty much devoid of floral or herbal notes. In the mouth, the tea is pleasant, a bit flat, and with an atypical hint of cinnamon and malt. The aftertaste is the best part of this brew, with a hint of cinnamon, malt, and some woody tannin. The Nilgiri zest finally makes its appearance at the tail end of the aftertaste. Don't scrimp on the leaf with this tea, it requires a generous amount for a satisfying flavor.
It appears that the leaf for this tea has undergone a more uniform and slightly greater oxidation than is typical for the region. It also received a generous amount of baking; the tea gives off a very toasty scent when the dry leaf hits the hot water. This explains, in part, why the tea is more generic, a bit heavier, and less aromatic than much of the competition. I remember having a similar impression of a Korakundah tea I had several years ago.
Clearly, I'm not crazy about this style of tea, but this is a solid tea that you might like.
This is a fairly button-downed tea, with a serious demeanor. The modest aroma is slightly toasty and has a somewhat "darker" aroma that I associate with a more oxidized leaf. It's pretty much devoid of floral or herbal notes. In the mouth, the tea is pleasant, a bit flat, and with an atypical hint of cinnamon and malt. The aftertaste is the best part of this brew, with a hint of cinnamon, malt, and some woody tannin. The Nilgiri zest finally makes its appearance at the tail end of the aftertaste. Don't scrimp on the leaf with this tea, it requires a generous amount for a satisfying flavor.
It appears that the leaf for this tea has undergone a more uniform and slightly greater oxidation than is typical for the region. It also received a generous amount of baking; the tea gives off a very toasty scent when the dry leaf hits the hot water. This explains, in part, why the tea is more generic, a bit heavier, and less aromatic than much of the competition. I remember having a similar impression of a Korakundah tea I had several years ago.
Clearly, I'm not crazy about this style of tea, but this is a solid tea that you might like.
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Iyerpadi BOP Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)
I reviewed the Iyerpadi OP a few posts ago. Today I'm tackling the BOP. These two teas have a common "estate" flavor, but are otherwise quite different. As expected, the BOP is composed of more fully oxidized and smaller leaf pieces, so it brews up noticeably darker and stronger for any given volume. In place of the OP's bright citrus, and herb aroma, the BOP delivers a deeper and darker aroma with much less of the herb and citrus aromatics. In the mouth, the BOP is fuller, softer, and a bit richer and is close to an Assam in texture and style. The aftertaste is softer and less bright too.
This tea, like its OP stablemate, does not easily turn bitter or astringent when over-brewed. As a result, you can make a satisfyingly rich cup by using a little extra leaf and time, and this tea seems to shine when so brewed.
This is the most Assam-like Nilgiri tea I've had. It doesn't have much in the way of the malty or chocolaty notes for which Assam is known, but it does come fairly close in the texture and strength departments. As a result, this would be my first choice for an Assam drinker interested in trying a Nilgiri. It would also be a good choice for iced tea, especially considering its strength and relatively low price of $4.95 for 4 oz.
This tea, like its OP stablemate, does not easily turn bitter or astringent when over-brewed. As a result, you can make a satisfyingly rich cup by using a little extra leaf and time, and this tea seems to shine when so brewed.
This is the most Assam-like Nilgiri tea I've had. It doesn't have much in the way of the malty or chocolaty notes for which Assam is known, but it does come fairly close in the texture and strength departments. As a result, this would be my first choice for an Assam drinker interested in trying a Nilgiri. It would also be a good choice for iced tea, especially considering its strength and relatively low price of $4.95 for 4 oz.
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Craigmore OP Nilgiri (Upton Tea Imports)
This tea has an understated nature. The modest and pleasant aroma has a hint of woodiness, but little of the floral or herbal scents typical of many Nilgiris. The flavor is similarly pleasant and generic, finishing with a mild astringency and lemony tang that carries into a fairly persistent aftertaste.
The dry tea leaf contained many long and stout stem pieces, suggesting that the raw material for this basic OP tea was not the best the estate had at its disposal. It's a decent tea, but not one I would order again.
The dry tea leaf contained many long and stout stem pieces, suggesting that the raw material for this basic OP tea was not the best the estate had at its disposal. It's a decent tea, but not one I would order again.
Monday, April 9, 2012
Kairbetta SFTGFOP1 Nilgiri (Stand Tea Company)
This is a very interesting tea, classified as a black tea, but liquoring up golden and coming across more like an Oolong. It most resembles a first flush Darjeeling, but has a distinctive Nilgiri, or more specifically, a very Kairbetta aroma and flavor. Its racy aroma contains sweet, floral, and spicy elements. It tastes like it smells: strongly floral, spicy and citrus-like. By the way, that spiciness is somewhat similar to cracked coriander seed. The aftertaste lingers, with sweetness, citrus, and a hint of bitterness.
The brewed leaves are small and delicate, indicating a tender top-leaf plucking, and presumably one from the winter season. They're a light olive green stained with light brown. Clearly this tea was carefully made, and from high-quality leaf. It's also quite strong, and can become unpleasantly astringent if over-brewed. For best results, treat this tea like finicky green or astringent Darjeeling, and keep your water temperature well off the boil. At 180 degrees Fahrenheit, you can re-steep the leaves several times and get an attractively light, sweet, and pungent cup.
This is an intense tea that demands your attention, but that intensity may make it less successful as an everyday tea. It should appeal to those looking for a bold Nilgiri analog to first-flush Darjeeling. Strand is offering this high-grade stuff for the surprisingly low price of 4 oz. for $8.95.
The brewed leaves are small and delicate, indicating a tender top-leaf plucking, and presumably one from the winter season. They're a light olive green stained with light brown. Clearly this tea was carefully made, and from high-quality leaf. It's also quite strong, and can become unpleasantly astringent if over-brewed. For best results, treat this tea like finicky green or astringent Darjeeling, and keep your water temperature well off the boil. At 180 degrees Fahrenheit, you can re-steep the leaves several times and get an attractively light, sweet, and pungent cup.
This is an intense tea that demands your attention, but that intensity may make it less successful as an everyday tea. It should appeal to those looking for a bold Nilgiri analog to first-flush Darjeeling. Strand is offering this high-grade stuff for the surprisingly low price of 4 oz. for $8.95.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Chamraj Oolong (Chado)
While the Nilgiri region has been traditionally known for its black teas, several estates have been producing Oolongs or Oolong-like black teas. The Nilgiri Oolongs I've tried have been quite impressive.
This Oolong from Chamraj is very nice. It's quite similar to a medium oxidized and medium roasted Dancong Oolong. There is some dimension to the interesting aroma, which carries a peachy fruitiness I normally associate with Dancong. In the mouth, the flavor is again quite like Dancong, but a bit softer and less astringent. The moderately long aftertaste is pleasantly sweet, with a hint of bitterness.
This tea is definitely worth a try if you're a fan of Oolongs.
This Oolong from Chamraj is very nice. It's quite similar to a medium oxidized and medium roasted Dancong Oolong. There is some dimension to the interesting aroma, which carries a peachy fruitiness I normally associate with Dancong. In the mouth, the flavor is again quite like Dancong, but a bit softer and less astringent. The moderately long aftertaste is pleasantly sweet, with a hint of bitterness.
This tea is definitely worth a try if you're a fan of Oolongs.
Saturday, April 7, 2012
Tiger Hill FOP Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)
I think Tiger Hill has produced a very nice tea here. This well-structured tea more closely resembles a good Ceylon than any other Nilgiri I've tried, but does so without obscuring its provenance. Somehow, the tea maker has been able to retain the best aspects of the Nilgiri identity while playing down some of the wildness. The net result is a fairly sophisticated, well-balanced tea with the stuffing and structure to stand up to milk. As good as it is, this is still a fairly straightforward tea, so don't expect lots of nuance.
This is a good choice for Ceylon drinkers looking to try a Nilgiri.
This is a good choice for Ceylon drinkers looking to try a Nilgiri.
Havukal OP Nilgiri (Chado)
Until I tried this tea, I thought you were pretty much assured of a solid, reasonably flavorful black tea when you selected a basic OP, BOP, or FOP from one of the major Nilgiri estates. Sure, I didn't expect much in the way of finesse, dimensionality, or nuance, but flavor and some aroma were a given.
The Havukal estate teas are competitive at auction and their specialty teas are well regarded. So, I thought I'd give this basic orthodox offering a try. This tea has a very meager aroma, and not a particularly Niligi-like one at that. It doesn't fare much better in the flavor department, where it comes across as pleasantly sweet and mild, but with a weak could-be-made-anywhere flavor. Surprisingly, the aftertaste does have a little tang and flavor.
I checked the aroma and look of the dry leaf. While it was not particularly fragrant, it did not smell or look particularly old. In fact, the dry leaf was more fragrant than the brewed tea. Perhaps this was just a weak batch.
Every tea has its place, and this one could be an excellent vehicle for flavored tea, as it does have some structure and a mild sweetness. It could also be used in an iced-tea blend. As a standalone hot tea, I can't recommend it.
The Havukal estate teas are competitive at auction and their specialty teas are well regarded. So, I thought I'd give this basic orthodox offering a try. This tea has a very meager aroma, and not a particularly Niligi-like one at that. It doesn't fare much better in the flavor department, where it comes across as pleasantly sweet and mild, but with a weak could-be-made-anywhere flavor. Surprisingly, the aftertaste does have a little tang and flavor.
I checked the aroma and look of the dry leaf. While it was not particularly fragrant, it did not smell or look particularly old. In fact, the dry leaf was more fragrant than the brewed tea. Perhaps this was just a weak batch.
Every tea has its place, and this one could be an excellent vehicle for flavored tea, as it does have some structure and a mild sweetness. It could also be used in an iced-tea blend. As a standalone hot tea, I can't recommend it.
Friday, April 6, 2012
Thiashola Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)
Several Nilgiri tea estates seem inclined to produce their basic black teas in a style that will woo the Ceylon tea drinker. I'm not sure if this is a good or bad thing, but it does leave some of these teas with a rather generic character. Rest assured, this Thiashola tea is not one of them.
There is a wild and rustic quality to this tea. The aroma, while clearly that of a Nilgiri, bears a resemblance to that of a good aged sheng (raw) Pu-Erh. There is also a slight and atypical toasty/smoky note in the aroma and flavor.
The tea liquors up a bit on the light side, and this is not surprising as the leaves show a bit less oxidization than is typical of Nilgiri blacks. That may also contribute to this tea's low astringency and its ability to take strong brewing. And, it's clearly at its best when you use a little extra leaf and time. So brewed, it becomes soft, full and soothing. Like most Nilgiris, it has a pleasant fruitiness, but unlike the Iyerpadi with its bright berry notes, the Thiashola comes across more prune-like. There's also less citrus here, but the herbal notes remain and remind me, once again, of sheng Pu-Erh. The aftertaste is moderately long and tasty.
While there are finer and more expensive Nilgiri teas to be had, for the modest price of $6.50 for 4 oz. you get an very good and interesting tea.
If teas like Wu Yi Oolong or sheng Pu-Erh appeal to you, this may be your Nilgiri.
There is a wild and rustic quality to this tea. The aroma, while clearly that of a Nilgiri, bears a resemblance to that of a good aged sheng (raw) Pu-Erh. There is also a slight and atypical toasty/smoky note in the aroma and flavor.
The tea liquors up a bit on the light side, and this is not surprising as the leaves show a bit less oxidization than is typical of Nilgiri blacks. That may also contribute to this tea's low astringency and its ability to take strong brewing. And, it's clearly at its best when you use a little extra leaf and time. So brewed, it becomes soft, full and soothing. Like most Nilgiris, it has a pleasant fruitiness, but unlike the Iyerpadi with its bright berry notes, the Thiashola comes across more prune-like. There's also less citrus here, but the herbal notes remain and remind me, once again, of sheng Pu-Erh. The aftertaste is moderately long and tasty.
While there are finer and more expensive Nilgiri teas to be had, for the modest price of $6.50 for 4 oz. you get an very good and interesting tea.
If teas like Wu Yi Oolong or sheng Pu-Erh appeal to you, this may be your Nilgiri.
Thursday, April 5, 2012
Iyerpadi OP Nilgiri tea (Upton Tea Imports)
Iyerpadi OP (Orange Pekoe) is one of my favorite Nilgiri black teas. It's fragrant, flavorful, refreshing, and relatively inexpensive (100g @ $5.40). This is not a terribly serious, heavy, or particularly complex tea, but one that is clean, bright, and invites quaffing. Its pronounced and attractive aroma hints at citrus and herbs and notes of strawberry, citrus, and herb mingle in it's pleasantly fruity flavor. The liquor is gently brisk, and finishes with a light, cleansing tang.
This might be a good alternative for those who appreciate a light-liquoring, high-grown Ceylon tea.
This might be a good alternative for those who appreciate a light-liquoring, high-grown Ceylon tea.
Nilgiri Teas
The next ten or so posts will cover Nilgiri tea. The vast majority of teas produced in this mountainous far-western portion of the Tamil-Nadu state of India are black CTC (crush tear curl) granular tea. However, the premier high-elevation estates generally produce a variety of high-grade black orthodox teas, and many also make green, white, or oolong variations. The following notes will cover a variety of currently available orthodox teas sourced via the internet. If you'd like more info on the history of Nilgiri tea, you may find the following well-written Wikipedia article helpful:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nilgiri_tea
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nilgiri_tea
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Why the Teabozo?
I'm grateful to all the people who have taken the time to post their tea experiences on the various tea-related internet blogs, forums, and review sites. That information has proved quite helpful. Basically, The Teabozo will be a repository for my tea-tasting notes, and my way of giving back to that helpful community.
I'm a longtime tea drinker who prefers whole-leaf, unflavored tea. I try to be as unbiased as possible in my evaluations, but I definitely have preferences. I drink Oolong, black(red), green and an occasional white or Pu-Erh tea. Some tea types I know quite well, and others I'm just getting acquainted with. I'll try to remember to indicate my degree of familiarity in each tea review.
I hope you can find something helpful here.
The Teabozo
I'm a longtime tea drinker who prefers whole-leaf, unflavored tea. I try to be as unbiased as possible in my evaluations, but I definitely have preferences. I drink Oolong, black(red), green and an occasional white or Pu-Erh tea. Some tea types I know quite well, and others I'm just getting acquainted with. I'll try to remember to indicate my degree of familiarity in each tea review.
I hope you can find something helpful here.
The Teabozo
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