Somewhere in China, I'm sure, one can still find an old tea farmer who processes small batches of his wonderful, high-grown tea, and who will hand it over for a paltry sum. That fellow, I assure you, is not going to be found at Wu Yi. While I am not willing to rule out the possibility that I will stumble across a batch of great Wu Yi tea at a bargain price, I have come to expect that, with Wu Yi teas, you will usually get what you pay for. So if you want to pay a modest prices for your Wu Yi teas, you are going to have to chose how you compromise. Those compromises are the subject of today's post.
So, before I talk about the compromises, I'd like to first describe my idea of the ideal Wu Yi rock tea. That tea would be produced from tea picked at the peak of the spring season, picked solely by hand using the top shoot and the two leaves below it. Those leaves would come from a prime location in the Zheng Yan area, nestled in the shadow of one of the great crags. The leaves would be bright and fleshy, and filled with goodness. The sky would be clear, the weather relatively cool, and the leaves free from moisture. Porters would move them down the mountain quickly, and deliver them to a small, but well equipped and staffed tea factory, where they would be spread out for wilting in the afternoon sun. The tea master would inspect the wilting leaves frequently and then have his staff gather up the teas at the right moment and bring them inside to start the drying and bruising phases. The teas would be carefully guided through each processing step, preferably by hand, but likely using modern machinery if the factory produces even moderate amounts of product. The tea master would not depart until the rolling process was complete, probably sometime the following morning. The tea would be carefully bagged, and then sorted/de-stemmed and given a careful, extended low-heat baking over charcoal at a later time. A blend of the baked batches would yield a tea with a noticeable aroma, combining the deep sweet scents of stone fruits, along with honeysuckle-like florals. The otherwise pure-smelling aroma, would be complex with secondary scents reminiscent of cocoa powder, freshly cut wood, toasted almonds, coconut, honey, vanilla, and a hint of the wood smoke associated with the drying and baking processes. In the mouth, the tea would possess the distinct flavors associated with the cultivar and be deep, smooth, and have a pleasant fruity sweetness. A green/floral element would also be present, as would be flavors associated with the aromas mentioned above. The tea would coat the mouth with the rock essence. This would be most noticeable after the swallow at the back of the mouth and in the throat, where a slightly dry, almost chalk texture, would appear, followed by a concentrated burst of deep flavor. The back-of-the-mouth flavor would persist for many minutes, allowing you to enjoy the tea long after it had been swallowed. The emptied tea cup would be redolent with the concentrated scent of the tea essence. Successive infusions of the leaves would reveal slightly different aspects of the tea, until, many cups later, the tea faded into a light and pure soup. Did I mention it would be inexpensive too? Dream on!
So, if you are trying to find a fairly inexpensive Wu Yi oolong tea, what will you have to forgo? For one thing, location. It will be very difficult, if not impossible, to find any proper Zheng Yan tea being offered for a moderate price. Secondly, you're far less likely to find a tea picked near the peak of the spring season. If the vendor doesn't explicitly state the picking season, there is reason to suspect you'll be getting a summer or fall plucking. While autumn teas can be quite decent, summer teas are more likely to be coarse or to carry off aromas and flavors. Cheaper teas are also more likely to be picked, or perhaps I should say cut, using mechanical means. Mechanical gathering definitely increases the chances of incorporating older, poorer-tasting leaf. Large-scale production contributes to cost savings too, so less inexpensive teas are more likely to be produced in large batches. While there are well-equipped tea factories that are able to process large quantities of leaf while carefully controlling processing, there are others who certainly are not. Finally, cheap begets cheap. If the farmer brings in sub-par leaf, chances are the factory will apply sub-par processing to it.
In the coming posts, I'll review and attempt to spot the compromises in eleven not-too-expensive Wu Yi teas and one rather expensive one.
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
Sunday, December 16, 2012
Wu Yi Rock Tea Observations
Over the next few weeks, I will be posting my observations on a dozen or so recently purchased Wu Yi oolong teas. The initial goal of these purchases was to assess vendors based on the quality and value of their moderately-priced Wu Yi oolongs. I'll begin my postings with the least expensive of the teas, and move up from there. Before I start with the reviews, I'd like to summarize those things that, in a broad sense, distinguish and characterize Wu Yi oolong teas.
The Wu Yi mountain oolong teas can be characterized by the following things:
- Type of tea plant (cultivar)
- Location of plantation
- Method of processing
- Growing season
Tea Cultivars
The Wu Yi mountains are home to hundreds of wild native tea cultivars, but just a handful of them have achieved success in commercial cultivation. The best known and most highly prized of these is the Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) cultivar, which, in many minds, is synonymous with Wu Yi Rock Tea. Below Da Hong Pao, the so-called King of Wu Yi, there are four other cultivars known as the Si Da Ming Cong (Four Big Famous(Great) Bushes) that are considered the best of the cultivars. They include: Bai Ji Guan (White Cockscomb), Tie Luo Han (Iron Warrior Monk), Shui Jin Gui (Golden Water Turtle), and Ban Tian Yao (Half Way to Heaven). In addition to their generally superior quality, the Si Da Ming Cong are produced in fairly limited quantities, so prices for these teas tend to be very high.
Below the Si Da Ming Cong are a sizeable number of Qi Zhong (Outstanding Type) cultivars, often sporting colorful names, such as Drunken Concubine or Golden Key, but which are rarely available due to limited production.
Two tea cultivars, Shui Xian and Rou Gui, have their own family classification. Both are widely cultivated in the Wu Yi mountains and can produce outstanding tea. Shui Xian, the most widely planted of all Wu Yi cultivars, is produced in many styles and most prized in its Lao Cong (Old Bush) form. Anyone who has experienced one of the many low-quality Shui Xian produced outside of the Wu Yi mountains may be tempted to avoid the cultivar altogether. That would be a shame, as it can produce a most charming brew. Rou Gui can produce a wonderfully aromatic and intensely flavored tea that can give the best of the Si Da Ming Cong a run for their money. Production of this tea has increased greatly in the Wu Yi mountains, and often in prime plantation space.
Farmers and scientists were apparently not happy with all the native bounty of Wu Yi, so some cultivars from outside of Wu Yi have been transplanted there. These foreign cultivars generally do well in the areas surrounding the Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) area. For example, the Ba Xian cultivar, which can produce outstanding teas in both Anxi county in southern Fujian and at Phoenix Mountain in northern Guangdong, can make an excellent tea at Wu Yi too. Scientists at the Wu Yi Research Institute have recently produced several new teas that have been optimized for the Wu Yi soils and climate, and which in some cases, take into account the shift in consumer preference toward greener, more floral oolong. Two particularly successful cultivars are the Huang Guan Yin and Jin Fo.
The most widely grown and therefore available Wu Yi teas are Shui Xian, Da Hong Pao, and Rou Gui. Demand for the famous Da Hong Pao is high, and this has resulted in widespread planting, often in less than ideal locations. Da Hong Pao can be outstanding, but there is plenty on the market that is not. Shui Xian runs the gamut, from poor to sublime, and Rou Gui tends to be one of the more reliable of the rock teas.
The location of a Wu Yi mountain tea plantation can make a very big difference in final-product quality. Wu Yi teas are broadly classified by location as Zheng Yan (Genuine Mountain), Ban Yan (Half Mountain), Zhou (grown near the river bank), or Outer Wu Yi (grown well outside the Zheng Yan area).
The best teas are grown in the delimited Zheng Yan area, also referred to as Inner Wu Yi, the Wu Yi scenic area, or the tourist area. This 70 square kilometer area lies just west of Wu Yi Shan City and features 36 peaks, 99 crags, numerous streams, and stunning waterfalls. It's not only beautiful, but some of the best teas in the world are made here. There are different micro-climates within the area, but, in general, all share the frequent fog, mist and mineral-rich soil that contribute to the characteristic qualities of genuine Wu Yi tea. The actual plantation space within the scenic area is spotty, so production is limited, making genuine rock tea very expensive, with the best of it rarely making it to the open market.
The Ban Yan teas are grown just outside the borders of the Zheng Yan area. This area can be thought of as a little less of everything that is Zheng Yan. In general, the soils are not quite as mineral rich, the fogs and mists not as persistent, and the towering land forms, stunted. While this area may not have quite the potential of the central area, several serious tea makers make very fine teas here. Production here is generally more commercial, so Ban Yan teas tend to be a bit more consistent and straight forward than many of their more artisanal Zheng Yan counterparts.
Zhou teas are produced neighboring the stream banks where the soil is different and the bushes receive little protection from the sun. These are considered to be the teas of lowest quality.
The Outer Wu Yi area encompasses a variety of terrains. First, the terms Outer Wu Yi and Ban Yan are often interchanged. I like to think of the Outer Wu Yi as those areas well outside of the scenic area, and that includes the other famous Wu Yi tea producing area far to the west of the scenic area near Tong Mu where Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (Lapsang Souchong) is produced. Here, in the area known as the Wu Yi Nature Reserve, the landscape is more conventionally scenic, with rugged forested mountains. This area is known for its Wu Yi Bohea, Lapsang Souchong, and Jin Jun Mei black teas, but very nice Oolongs are also produced from the local Qi Lan cultivar. To the south of the Zheng Yan area, the land flattens out somewhat and one can find large plantations. I suspect this area supplies much of the leaf for the more economically-priced Wu Yi oolong.
Wu Yi tea processing is extremely complex, and, this allows the tea master to influence the tea's character in many different ways during the many stages. It would be a great oversimplification to say that Wu Yi processing can be classified based on the degree of leaf oxidation and the amount of baking, or, more simply, as either modern or traditional, but that is generally how it's done.
In recent years, there has been a trend toward producing Wu Yi oolongs that are greener and less baked. These teas are referred to as modern style, light roast, fen aroma, or fragrance teas. They generally have a strong floral aroma, noticeable varietal character, and quite a bit of up-front flavor. At the other extreme are the so-called traditional teas that undergo moderate-to-heavy oxidation and extended baking over charcoal. These teas often have a more restrained, but deeper aroma, with a softer mouth feel, and a deeper, fruitier and sweeter taste. Traditional teas also tend to give up their flavors and aromas more slowly, but last through more infusions, making them ideal for Gong Fu preparation.
In reality, tea makers are not constrained by these categorizations. They can vary much more than just the degree of oxidation or baking, including such things as: the of time of withering and drying, the degree and frequency of shaking, the time that teas are left piled between steps, the force and duration of rolling, and the source of heat used during drying or baking. In addition, and especially with smaller-batch processing, tea makers can process leaf from different areas and days very differently, and then blend them together later. The blended product can be more complex and multidimensional than more uniformly processed teas.
Wu Yi oolongs may be picked in the spring, summer, fall, or winter, but spring tea is almost universally considered to be the best. In fact, some producers only produce a spring tea. Winter and autumn pluckings come next in quality, and summer ranks a distant last. Relatively little winter tea is produced, and, in my experience, autumn oolongs tend to be somewhat duller and have less varietal distinction than their spring counterparts. That doesn't mean that great autumn tea isn't produced. It's just that spring is generally a better bet, especially if you like the modern style teas.
Teas, like wines,also vary by year. I remember comparing a particular factory's spring 2009 rock teas to the equivalent 2010 teas. The 2009 teas, with perhaps the exception of the Da Hong Pao, were noticeably better.
Below the Si Da Ming Cong are a sizeable number of Qi Zhong (Outstanding Type) cultivars, often sporting colorful names, such as Drunken Concubine or Golden Key, but which are rarely available due to limited production.
Two tea cultivars, Shui Xian and Rou Gui, have their own family classification. Both are widely cultivated in the Wu Yi mountains and can produce outstanding tea. Shui Xian, the most widely planted of all Wu Yi cultivars, is produced in many styles and most prized in its Lao Cong (Old Bush) form. Anyone who has experienced one of the many low-quality Shui Xian produced outside of the Wu Yi mountains may be tempted to avoid the cultivar altogether. That would be a shame, as it can produce a most charming brew. Rou Gui can produce a wonderfully aromatic and intensely flavored tea that can give the best of the Si Da Ming Cong a run for their money. Production of this tea has increased greatly in the Wu Yi mountains, and often in prime plantation space.
Farmers and scientists were apparently not happy with all the native bounty of Wu Yi, so some cultivars from outside of Wu Yi have been transplanted there. These foreign cultivars generally do well in the areas surrounding the Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) area. For example, the Ba Xian cultivar, which can produce outstanding teas in both Anxi county in southern Fujian and at Phoenix Mountain in northern Guangdong, can make an excellent tea at Wu Yi too. Scientists at the Wu Yi Research Institute have recently produced several new teas that have been optimized for the Wu Yi soils and climate, and which in some cases, take into account the shift in consumer preference toward greener, more floral oolong. Two particularly successful cultivars are the Huang Guan Yin and Jin Fo.
The most widely grown and therefore available Wu Yi teas are Shui Xian, Da Hong Pao, and Rou Gui. Demand for the famous Da Hong Pao is high, and this has resulted in widespread planting, often in less than ideal locations. Da Hong Pao can be outstanding, but there is plenty on the market that is not. Shui Xian runs the gamut, from poor to sublime, and Rou Gui tends to be one of the more reliable of the rock teas.
Location
The location of a Wu Yi mountain tea plantation can make a very big difference in final-product quality. Wu Yi teas are broadly classified by location as Zheng Yan (Genuine Mountain), Ban Yan (Half Mountain), Zhou (grown near the river bank), or Outer Wu Yi (grown well outside the Zheng Yan area).
The best teas are grown in the delimited Zheng Yan area, also referred to as Inner Wu Yi, the Wu Yi scenic area, or the tourist area. This 70 square kilometer area lies just west of Wu Yi Shan City and features 36 peaks, 99 crags, numerous streams, and stunning waterfalls. It's not only beautiful, but some of the best teas in the world are made here. There are different micro-climates within the area, but, in general, all share the frequent fog, mist and mineral-rich soil that contribute to the characteristic qualities of genuine Wu Yi tea. The actual plantation space within the scenic area is spotty, so production is limited, making genuine rock tea very expensive, with the best of it rarely making it to the open market.
The Ban Yan teas are grown just outside the borders of the Zheng Yan area. This area can be thought of as a little less of everything that is Zheng Yan. In general, the soils are not quite as mineral rich, the fogs and mists not as persistent, and the towering land forms, stunted. While this area may not have quite the potential of the central area, several serious tea makers make very fine teas here. Production here is generally more commercial, so Ban Yan teas tend to be a bit more consistent and straight forward than many of their more artisanal Zheng Yan counterparts.
Zhou teas are produced neighboring the stream banks where the soil is different and the bushes receive little protection from the sun. These are considered to be the teas of lowest quality.
The Outer Wu Yi area encompasses a variety of terrains. First, the terms Outer Wu Yi and Ban Yan are often interchanged. I like to think of the Outer Wu Yi as those areas well outside of the scenic area, and that includes the other famous Wu Yi tea producing area far to the west of the scenic area near Tong Mu where Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (Lapsang Souchong) is produced. Here, in the area known as the Wu Yi Nature Reserve, the landscape is more conventionally scenic, with rugged forested mountains. This area is known for its Wu Yi Bohea, Lapsang Souchong, and Jin Jun Mei black teas, but very nice Oolongs are also produced from the local Qi Lan cultivar. To the south of the Zheng Yan area, the land flattens out somewhat and one can find large plantations. I suspect this area supplies much of the leaf for the more economically-priced Wu Yi oolong.
Processing
Wu Yi tea processing is extremely complex, and, this allows the tea master to influence the tea's character in many different ways during the many stages. It would be a great oversimplification to say that Wu Yi processing can be classified based on the degree of leaf oxidation and the amount of baking, or, more simply, as either modern or traditional, but that is generally how it's done.
In recent years, there has been a trend toward producing Wu Yi oolongs that are greener and less baked. These teas are referred to as modern style, light roast, fen aroma, or fragrance teas. They generally have a strong floral aroma, noticeable varietal character, and quite a bit of up-front flavor. At the other extreme are the so-called traditional teas that undergo moderate-to-heavy oxidation and extended baking over charcoal. These teas often have a more restrained, but deeper aroma, with a softer mouth feel, and a deeper, fruitier and sweeter taste. Traditional teas also tend to give up their flavors and aromas more slowly, but last through more infusions, making them ideal for Gong Fu preparation.
In reality, tea makers are not constrained by these categorizations. They can vary much more than just the degree of oxidation or baking, including such things as: the of time of withering and drying, the degree and frequency of shaking, the time that teas are left piled between steps, the force and duration of rolling, and the source of heat used during drying or baking. In addition, and especially with smaller-batch processing, tea makers can process leaf from different areas and days very differently, and then blend them together later. The blended product can be more complex and multidimensional than more uniformly processed teas.
Production Seasons
Wu Yi oolongs may be picked in the spring, summer, fall, or winter, but spring tea is almost universally considered to be the best. In fact, some producers only produce a spring tea. Winter and autumn pluckings come next in quality, and summer ranks a distant last. Relatively little winter tea is produced, and, in my experience, autumn oolongs tend to be somewhat duller and have less varietal distinction than their spring counterparts. That doesn't mean that great autumn tea isn't produced. It's just that spring is generally a better bet, especially if you like the modern style teas.
Teas, like wines,also vary by year. I remember comparing a particular factory's spring 2009 rock teas to the equivalent 2010 teas. The 2009 teas, with perhaps the exception of the Da Hong Pao, were noticeably better.
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