Shui Xian Oolong tea is grown in many areas of southeastern China, but most notably in Fujian and Guangdong provinces. While green balled versions in the style of Tie Guan Yin are produced in southern Fujian, the majority of Shui Xian is generously oxidized, formed into twisted strips, and fully baked. Much of the Shui Xian production consists of cheap, flat-tasting tea that's heavily processed in an attempt to add character where little exists. On the other hand, some fine and pricey examples do exist and include: Wuyi Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) Shui Xian tea, Wuyi Lao Cong (Old Bush) Shui Xian, and high-grown versions processed as Phoenix Dancong in northern Guangdong province. Unfortunately, in between these extremes, pickings can be thin. It's really hard to find a very good, but relatively inexpensive Shui Xian.
Northern Fujian province (Min Bei) is known for its Shui Xian, and that from the Wuyi Mountains is considered the best of all the Min Bei. The very best of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown in the delimited Zheng Yan (genuine rock) area, along with all of the famous Yan Cha (Rock Teas), such as Da Hong Pao, Rou Gui, Shui Jin Gui, Tie Lou Han, and Bai Ji Guan. Most of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown outside of the Zheng Yan zone, and the degree to which these teas approach the genuine rock article will vary. With careful processing, those from the surrounding areas with similar soil composition and climate can be very fine, and may be marketed as Ban Yan (half rock) tea. A well-made Ban Yan may be far better than a sloppily handled Zheng Yan that costs much more. In reality, the name Wuyi or Wu Yi does not guarantee much, and one can easily find cheap and awful "Wuyi" tea of questionable provenance.
Wuyi Shui Xian Oolong processing spans the spectrum, from lightly oxidized leaf with mostly green centers and oxblood edges and blotches, to leaf that is oxidized like a black tea. In addition, Wuyi Oolong undergoes a baking process, either over charcoal or in an electric oven. Shorter baking retains floral notes, and longer baking increases depth and fruitiness. As a result, almost all Wuyi Oolongs have at least a minor toasty note, and some, unfortunately, are roasted to a crisp. Tea marketed as traditional usually undergoes a moderate-to-fuller oxidation, and a longer baking. A modern or light-roast style, goes lightly on both oxidation and roasting. Many traditional-style teas may receive a more complex fermentation/oxidation that yields earthy complexities.
And now, finally, we get to today's tea. I like Wuyi teas a lot. Unfortunately, as with all the famous teas of China, the really good stuff is prohibitively expensive, and very difficult to procure. I've been lucky to have been gifted some of the real deal by Chinese friends and have purchased modest amounts of decent stuff from Chinese and US-based sources. But, these are not teas I can afford to drink every day. I've been looking for a good, moderately-priced Wuyi Shui Xian, but I've been mostly disappointed. I received a sample from Jack at Strand, not expecting much considering that the tea goes for $8.95 for 4 oz., and compared it to two teas I consider good examples in the light-roasted style: Seven Cups Premium Wuyi Narcisus, Wuyishan Forrest Park Tea Company Zheng Yan Shui Xian (Harvard Stars).
Shui Xian leaves are usually a bit bigger than the other Wuyi cultivars, and the mostly intact leaves of this Strand example were just a bit larger than those from my two benchmark teas, both of which were spring teas. The dry leaf scent was a bit more straightforward and a bit less fruity than from the benchmarks, but pleasantly full and with a light toasty note. Once steeped, the tea produced a medium amber liquor and was just a bit lighter in color than either benchmark. The wet leaf showed a fairly light oxidation, a bit less than the Seven Cups, and the baking seemed fairly similar with all three, with the leaves unfurling at approximately the same rate. The generous aroma showed strong Shui Xian character, and was notably floral with a pleasant toasty note. The benchmarks, while not quite as strong, were perhaps a bit classier with more stone fruit and honey and a more integrated toasty complexity. In all cases, the flavor followed the aroma. The Strand was more direct, more intensely floral, but less honeyed, and tasting a bit more like an autumn tea with just a hint of coarseness. All had aftertastes of moderate strength and persistence, but I did like the slightly greater tang in the Strand. None of these teas showed a lot of the thickness before the swallow that good Zheng Yan can have, and all three had a good second steeping, but not a lot after that.
This may not sound like a resoundingly good review of the Strand sample, but I was comparing it to teas that cost more than twice as much. This is a carefully processed tea of high quality that's offered at an exceptional price. It's a Shui Xian I'd drink on a regular basis and a tea I'd recommend to those who'd like to try a lighter style of Wuyi tea at an affordable price.
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