Wu Yi Rock Tea Observations

Over the next few weeks, I will be posting my observations on a dozen or so recently purchased Wu Yi oolong teas.  The initial goal of these purchases was to assess vendors based on the quality and value of their moderately-priced Wu Yi oolongs.  I'll begin my postings with the least expensive of the teas, and move up from there.  Before I start with the reviews, I'd like to summarize those things that, in a broad sense, distinguish and characterize Wu Yi oolong teas.

The Wu Yi mountain oolong teas can be characterized by the following things:

• Type of tea plant (cultivar)
• Location of plantation
• Method of processing
• Growing season

Tea Cultivars

The Wu Yi mountains are home to hundreds of wild native tea cultivars, but just a handful of them have achieved success in commercial cultivation. The best known and most highly prized of these is the Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) cultivar, which, in many minds, is synonymous with Wu Yi Rock Tea.  Below Da Hong Pao, the so-called King of Wu Yi, there are four other cultivars known as the Si Da Ming Cong (Four Big Famous(Great) Bushes) that are considered the best of the cultivars.  They include: Bai Ji Guan (White Cockscomb), Tie Luo Han (Iron Warrior Monk), Shui Jin Gui (Golden Water Turtle), and Ban Tian Yao (Half Way to Heaven).  In addition to their generally superior quality, the Si Da Ming Cong are produced in fairly limited quantities, so prices for these teas tend to be very high.

Below the Si Da Ming Cong are a sizeable number of Qi  Zhong (Outstanding Type) cultivars, often sporting colorful names, such as Drunken Concubine or Golden Key, but which  are rarely available due to limited production.

Two tea cultivars, Shui Xian and Rou Gui, have their own family classification.  Both are widely cultivated in the Wu Yi mountains and can produce outstanding tea.  Shui Xian, the most widely planted of all Wu Yi cultivars, is produced in many styles and most prized in its Lao Cong (Old Bush) form.  Anyone who has experienced one of the many low-quality Shui Xian produced outside of the Wu Yi mountains may be tempted to avoid the cultivar altogether.  That would be a shame, as it can produce a most charming brew.  Rou Gui can produce a wonderfully aromatic and intensely flavored tea that can give the best of the Si Da Ming Cong a run for their money.  Production of this tea has increased greatly in the Wu Yi mountains, and often in prime plantation space. 

Farmers and scientists were apparently not happy with all the native bounty of Wu Yi, so some cultivars from outside of Wu Yi have been transplanted there.  These foreign cultivars generally do well in the areas surrounding the Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) area.  For example, the Ba Xian cultivar, which can produce outstanding teas in both Anxi county in southern Fujian and at Phoenix Mountain in northern Guangdong, can make an excellent tea at Wu Yi too.  Scientists at the Wu Yi Research Institute have recently produced several new teas that have been optimized for the Wu Yi soils and climate, and which in some cases, take into account the shift in consumer preference toward greener, more floral oolong.  Two particularly successful cultivars are the Huang Guan Yin and Jin Fo.

The most widely grown and therefore available Wu Yi teas are Shui Xian, Da Hong Pao, and Rou Gui.  Demand for the famous Da Hong Pao is high, and this has resulted in widespread planting, often in less than ideal locations.  Da Hong Pao can be outstanding, but there is plenty on the market that is not.  Shui Xian runs the gamut, from poor to sublime, and Rou Gui tends to be one of the more reliable of the rock teas.

Location

The location of a Wu Yi mountain tea plantation can make a very big difference in final-product quality.  Wu Yi teas are broadly classified by location as Zheng Yan (Genuine Mountain), Ban Yan (Half Mountain), Zhou (grown near the river bank), or Outer Wu Yi (grown well outside the Zheng Yan area).

The best teas are grown in the delimited Zheng Yan area, also referred to as Inner Wu Yi, the Wu Yi scenic area, or the tourist area.  This 70 square kilometer area lies just west of Wu Yi Shan City and features 36 peaks, 99 crags, numerous streams, and stunning waterfalls.  It's not only beautiful, but some of the best teas in the world are made here.  There are different micro-climates within the area, but, in general, all share the frequent fog, mist and mineral-rich soil that contribute to the characteristic qualities of genuine Wu Yi tea.  The actual plantation space within the scenic area is spotty, so production is limited, making genuine rock tea very expensive, with the best of it rarely making it to the open market.

The Ban Yan teas are grown just outside the borders of the Zheng Yan area.  This area can be thought of as a little less of everything that is Zheng Yan.  In general, the soils are not quite as mineral rich, the fogs and mists not as persistent, and the towering land forms, stunted.  While this area may not have quite the potential of the central area, several serious tea makers make very fine teas here.  Production here is generally more commercial, so Ban Yan teas tend to be a bit more consistent and straight forward than many of their more artisanal Zheng Yan counterparts.

Zhou teas are produced neighboring the stream banks where the soil is different and the bushes receive little protection from the sun.  These are considered to be the teas of lowest quality.

The Outer Wu Yi area encompasses a variety of terrains.  First, the terms Outer Wu Yi and Ban Yan are often interchanged.  I like to think of the Outer Wu Yi as those areas well outside of the scenic area, and that includes the other famous Wu Yi tea producing area far to the west of the scenic area near Tong Mu where Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (Lapsang Souchong) is produced.  Here, in the area known as the Wu Yi Nature Reserve, the landscape is more conventionally scenic, with rugged forested mountains.   This area is known for its Wu Yi Bohea, Lapsang Souchong, and Jin Jun Mei black teas, but very nice Oolongs are also produced from the local Qi Lan cultivar.  To the south of the Zheng Yan area, the land flattens out somewhat and one can find large plantations.  I suspect this area supplies much of the leaf for the more economically-priced Wu Yi oolong.

Processing

Wu Yi tea processing is extremely complex, and, this allows the tea master to influence the tea's character in many different ways during the many stages.  It would be a great oversimplification to say that Wu Yi processing can be classified based on the degree of leaf oxidation and the amount of baking, or, more simply, as either modern or traditional, but that is generally how it's done.

In recent years, there has been a trend toward producing Wu Yi oolongs that are greener and less baked.   These teas are referred to as modern style, light roast, fen aroma, or fragrance teas.  They generally have a strong floral aroma, noticeable varietal character, and quite a bit of up-front flavor.  At the other extreme are the so-called traditional teas that undergo moderate-to-heavy oxidation and extended baking over charcoal.  These teas often have a more restrained, but deeper aroma, with a softer mouth feel, and a deeper, fruitier and sweeter taste.  Traditional teas also tend to give up their flavors and aromas more slowly, but last through more infusions, making them ideal for Gong Fu preparation.

In reality, tea makers are not constrained by these categorizations.  They can vary much more than just the degree of oxidation or baking, including such things as: the of time of withering and drying, the degree and frequency of shaking, the time that teas are left piled between steps, the force and duration of rolling, and the source of heat used during drying or baking.  In addition, and especially with smaller-batch processing, tea makers can process leaf from different areas and days very differently, and then blend them together later.  The blended product can be more complex and multidimensional than more uniformly processed teas.

Production Seasons

Wu Yi oolongs may be picked in the spring, summer, fall, or winter, but spring tea is almost universally considered to be the best.  In fact, some producers only produce a spring tea.  Winter and autumn pluckings come next in quality, and summer ranks a distant last.  Relatively little winter tea is produced, and, in my experience, autumn oolongs tend to be somewhat duller and have less varietal distinction than their spring counterparts.  That doesn't mean that great autumn tea isn't produced.  It's just that spring is generally a better bet, especially if you like the modern style teas.

Teas, like wines,also vary by year.  I remember comparing a particular factory's spring 2009 rock teas to the equivalent 2010 teas.  The 2009 teas, with perhaps the exception of the Da Hong Pao, were noticeably better.

Mao Jian Wrap-up

Our senses and preferences are all different, so I hate to declare winners and losers based on my perceptions and biases, but I will.  I found these Mao-Jian-style teas to be quite similar and I would not be terribly surprised if mistook one for another in a blind tasting.  Any would be a  good choice for a moderately-priced tea for frequent consumption.

My two favorite teas of the bunch were the Tai Mu San and the Special Dao Ren.  While the Yun Wu tea did not make my "subjective" top two, I think it was clearly the highest quality tea of the bunch.  Both of the Strand teas provided surprising quality for the money.  The Upton teas were good too, just not as good a value.

Special Dao Ren (Upton Tea Imports)

Upton doesn't call this tea a Mao Jian tea, but I think it fairly qualifies as one.  The medium-sized dry, wiry leaf is a healthy medium-dark green.  The wet leaf shows tender medium-sized leaf segments and buds, and produces a medium yellow-to-yellow/green liquor.  The tea's aroma is full but in no way garish, with clean hay and grass aromas and a hint of nuttiness.  It has a medium body, is noticeably sweet and smooth, and a little grassy.  It's refreshing and goes down far too easily.  The aftertaste is clean, lightly sweet, and just above average in length.  The first infusion is charming, the second nice, and the third useable. 

This is a relatively sweet, refreshing, and graceful tea that, while somewhat more expensive than some of the competition, is nevertheless worth its price ($9.80 for 80g) in my opinion. 

Tai Mu San (Strand Tea Company)

This organic tea is described as coming from a small farm in the "Wuyi mountain region", but I'm fairly sure it is actually from the Taimu (Tai Mu) mountain area near Fuding, considerably east of Wu Yi Shan and quite close to the coast. If so, it is in good company, as this area is well regarded for its various white, green, and red (Bailin) teas. 

The dry wiry leaf is fairly small and aromatic. The wet leaf shows a blend of small whole and medium-small cut leaf  with a generous amount of medium-small buds.  The yellow-to-yellow/green liquor has quite a few floating tea hairs and a fairly full aroma that is soft, round, and pleasant.  It reminds me of fresh, sweet hay.  This tea is notably full in the mouth, with more viscosity than any of the other Mao Jian teas reviewed in this segment.  Overall, the taste is clean, balanced and comforting.  The aftertaste has an above-average intensity and persistence, with a nice tang that carries it for some time.  My first two steepings were very nice, and the third was still quite flavorful, if not quite as clean. 

This Tai Mu San tea offers excellent quality for the price ($7.95 for 4 oz.)  There are pricier teas that provide somewhat more nuance, complexity, and sophistication, but few that beat this tea's comforting, mouth-filling tastiness.

Yun Wu Supreme (Strand Tea Company)

Yun Wu (Cloud Mist) teas are a generally made in the Mao Jian style, but are grown at high elevations where clouds and mist blanket the mountainsides.  Teas grown in such environments tend to have a very clean, pure, tight, and crisp taste.  I've included this tea with the Mao Jians, because for all intents and purposes it is one.

Compared to the other teas reviewed in this category, this tea has the smallest and most wiry dry leaf.  The dry leaf smells quite fresh and is pleasantly aromatic.  The wet leaf shows primarily leaf pieces from medium-small leaf with some whole medium and whole smaller leaf and a generous number of small buds.  The liquor brews up a pale yellow-green and is aromatic, yet in a restrained sense (if that makes sense).  It's a little grassy, slightly vegetal (spinach?), and a bit floral.  In the mouth the tea comes across similarly, being a little grassy, a bit floral, somewhat sweet, and flavorful in a tight and pure way.  Overall, it's balanced with a tendency toward astringency.  The aftertaste is clean with a moderate intensity, and a light cleansing astringency that is followed by a tang that persists quite some time.  You can get two very nice steepings from this tea, a third that is still fairly pure tasting, and a fourth that, while noticeably weaker, hasn't yet turned "dirty". 

This is a very nice, flavorful tea with some finesse and a dose of high-mountain character.  There are Mao Jian teas with somewhat more dimension and nuance, and others with more strength and body, but if you are looking for a fairly pure tasting Mao Jian at a very attractive price ($7.95 for 4oz.), give this one a try.  Perhaps it's the large number of buds in the mix, or perhaps it's something else, but whatever, this one delivers a stimulant buzz.  It wouldn't be my first choice for a bedtime drink. 

Yishan Hairpoint Imperial (Upton Tea Imports)

The Upton description for this tea is a bit heavy on the superlatives, so I just had to give it a try.  Besides, how can you pass up the opportunity to try an "Imperial" tea that costs just $9.80 for 80 grams?  Anyway, I opened my tea sample at my decidedly downscale "Imperial Court" and this is what I found.

The medium-to-long twisted dry leaf is a fairly uniform medium-dark color.  Once wet, it appears to be made of primarily medium-sized whole leaf, with a few smaller whole leaves and several pieces of larger leaf.  The leaf is joined by a fairly small percentage of buds, at least in my sample.   The quite aromatic liquor has a pleasant, clean, and slightly vegetal aroma with a mineral note and a medium yellow-green color.  In the mouth the tea is balanced and smooth with a pleasant vegetal taste that finishes on a sweet floral note.  The aftertaste is moderate in intensity and a little better than average in length, but it seemed just a bit flat to me.  With sufficient leaf, this Mao Jian makes a nice second steeping, and a third that's still decent. 

This is a good Mao Jian that is arguably a notch better that Upton's Gu Zhang tea and it is certainly one I could enjoy on a regular basis.  Unfortunately, Upton's glowing description raised my expectations too high and left me expecting slightly more.

Gu Zhang Mao Jian (Upton Tea Imports)

This Gu Zhang tea from Upton is, by a small margin, the least expensive of the Upton Mao-Jian-style teas reviewed in this series of posts.  The moderate-to-long twisted dry leaf has a distinct, fresh "dark green" aroma.  The wet leaf shows a combination of medium-sized whole leaf, torn larger leaf, and moderately small buds.  The liquor has a pleasant, clean, and fairly strong aroma with sweet grassy and chestnut notes.  Its taste is pleasant, clean, and quite flavorful with little of the coarseness that can show up in full-flavored teas at this price.  Medium bodied and well balanced, there is just the slightest hint of flatness.  The aftertaste is moderately long and pleasant.  This tea produces a very nice first steeping, a good second steeping, and not much after that.

Overall, this is a good, solid tea that pairs well with food and should appeal to those who prefer flavor over finesse. Attractively priced at $5.20 for 60 grams, it offers good value, but there are similarly-priced Mao Jian teas that offer somewhat higher quality.