Wuyi Mountain Shuixian Oolong (Strand Tea Co.)

I reviewed this tea--or perhaps a different batch of it--some time ago on this blog. Here's my latest take.

The dry leaf is typical of a modern-style Wu Yi tea, but perhaps just a bit lighter and greener.  The dry leaf aroma is promising, though not terribly strong, with a nice hint of smoke and roast. The wet leaf shows careful processing, and is a bit more green and less roasted looking (the greens are still quite bright) than most light-roast Wu Yi.  It looks like spring leaf, but I could be wrong.

The tea liquors up a medium-light amber, somewhat lighter than I typically expect from this type of tea.

The clean, moderately-intense aroma carries a "raw green" Shui Xian varietal character that vaguely reminds me of artichoke and green olive.  It's also quite smoky and less fruity than expected.

This is the most "green" tasting Wu Yi Shui Xian I've had.  It's clean, distinctly varietal, and well made, but also on the dry side, with less of the stone fruit and honey notes that are fairly typical of Shui Xian.  There's also some smokiness in the flavor, particularly in the first brewing.  I'm drawn to the subtly complex flavor of this tea, but it may not be for everyone.

The tea does not have a lot of rock character, at least as it is typically expressed in the back of the throat, but the aftertaste is still quite satisfying and fairly persistent, with a distinct wood smoke note.

The dry cup aroma is quite good.

The tea can be brewed a few times, and while later brews are not terribly strong, they taste more pure and less flat than I've come to expect from oolongs of this price.

I like this tea and will probably purchase it again.  It's a nice change from the heavier and sweeter rock teas and, at $8.95 for 4 oz., it's quite affordable.

Mao Jian Wrap-up

Our senses and preferences are all different, so I hate to declare winners and losers based on my perceptions and biases, but I will.  I found these Mao-Jian-style teas to be quite similar and I would not be terribly surprised if mistook one for another in a blind tasting.  Any would be a  good choice for a moderately-priced tea for frequent consumption.

My two favorite teas of the bunch were the Tai Mu San and the Special Dao Ren.  While the Yun Wu tea did not make my "subjective" top two, I think it was clearly the highest quality tea of the bunch.  Both of the Strand teas provided surprising quality for the money.  The Upton teas were good too, just not as good a value.

Tai Mu San (Strand Tea Company)

This organic tea is described as coming from a small farm in the "Wuyi mountain region", but I'm fairly sure it is actually from the Taimu (Tai Mu) mountain area near Fuding, considerably east of Wu Yi Shan and quite close to the coast. If so, it is in good company, as this area is well regarded for its various white, green, and red (Bailin) teas. 

The dry wiry leaf is fairly small and aromatic. The wet leaf shows a blend of small whole and medium-small cut leaf  with a generous amount of medium-small buds.  The yellow-to-yellow/green liquor has quite a few floating tea hairs and a fairly full aroma that is soft, round, and pleasant.  It reminds me of fresh, sweet hay.  This tea is notably full in the mouth, with more viscosity than any of the other Mao Jian teas reviewed in this segment.  Overall, the taste is clean, balanced and comforting.  The aftertaste has an above-average intensity and persistence, with a nice tang that carries it for some time.  My first two steepings were very nice, and the third was still quite flavorful, if not quite as clean. 

This Tai Mu San tea offers excellent quality for the price ($7.95 for 4 oz.)  There are pricier teas that provide somewhat more nuance, complexity, and sophistication, but few that beat this tea's comforting, mouth-filling tastiness.

Yun Wu Supreme (Strand Tea Company)

Yun Wu (Cloud Mist) teas are a generally made in the Mao Jian style, but are grown at high elevations where clouds and mist blanket the mountainsides.  Teas grown in such environments tend to have a very clean, pure, tight, and crisp taste.  I've included this tea with the Mao Jians, because for all intents and purposes it is one.

Compared to the other teas reviewed in this category, this tea has the smallest and most wiry dry leaf.  The dry leaf smells quite fresh and is pleasantly aromatic.  The wet leaf shows primarily leaf pieces from medium-small leaf with some whole medium and whole smaller leaf and a generous number of small buds.  The liquor brews up a pale yellow-green and is aromatic, yet in a restrained sense (if that makes sense).  It's a little grassy, slightly vegetal (spinach?), and a bit floral.  In the mouth the tea comes across similarly, being a little grassy, a bit floral, somewhat sweet, and flavorful in a tight and pure way.  Overall, it's balanced with a tendency toward astringency.  The aftertaste is clean with a moderate intensity, and a light cleansing astringency that is followed by a tang that persists quite some time.  You can get two very nice steepings from this tea, a third that is still fairly pure tasting, and a fourth that, while noticeably weaker, hasn't yet turned "dirty". 

This is a very nice, flavorful tea with some finesse and a dose of high-mountain character.  There are Mao Jian teas with somewhat more dimension and nuance, and others with more strength and body, but if you are looking for a fairly pure tasting Mao Jian at a very attractive price ($7.95 for 4oz.), give this one a try.  Perhaps it's the large number of buds in the mix, or perhaps it's something else, but whatever, this one delivers a stimulant buzz.  It wouldn't be my first choice for a bedtime drink. 

Golden Snail Yunnan (Strand Tea Company)

I drink Yunnan black teas only occasionally and am far from an expert on the genre.  I've had some very good ones and  some dreadful ones.  Let's see how this one stacks up.

The dry leaf consists of small, tight spirals, many of which are golden.  The wet leaf is almost entirely whole leaves and buds with a fairly uniform cocoa-powder brown color.  The long buds and long leaves suggest that it's produced from the Yunnan large leaf variety.  Clearly, this is a tea that was picked and processed with considerable care.  The liquor is a fairly deep brown, with a golden, green-tinged rim.  The aroma is quite rich and deep, but with more of the characteristic softness of a Yunnan bud tea than the strong spiciness of a leaf-only grade.  I noted some soft and deep fruitiness, some molasses, a hint of cocoa, and a toasty note. There is definitely some dimension and complexity to this aroma.  In the mouth it's almost as smooth as a golden bud tea, but with a bit more body, grip, and richness of flavor.  I especially like the full mouth feel it delivers.  The liquor flavor intensifies notably as you transition into the swallow, showing strong Yunnan and cocoa flavors that persist quite some time in the aftertaste.

This is a very good Yunnan tea, which, at $10.95 for 4 oz., is a good deal for a tea of this quality.  It's powerful enough for breakfast, yet smooth and interesting enough for the afternoon.   A good choice for those who want a full-flavored Yunnan without the aggressiveness and/or peppery character that often accompany strong Yunnan blacks.

Kosabei Estate Kenya TGFOP (Strand Tea Company)

I'm not all that familiar with Kenya black tea. That shouldn't be too surprising, as much of what is produced is non-orthodox tea intended for blending.  As a result, most of the Kenyan tea I've consumed has been in blended and bagged teas, such as Barry's Gold Blend and Williamson's Lifeboat.  It doesn't help that I just can't seem to warm up to Irish teas, which are often blends of Assam and Kenyan tea, and which I generally find too blunt and heavy for my taste. By association, I have tended to steer clear of both pure Assam and Kenyan teas.  That's a shame, because I'm now starting to realize what I've missed.

Anyway, this Kosabei Estate tea is not what I was expecting.  An examination of the leaf tells you that it was plucked and processed with considerable care.  My sample had a combination of small whole leaf, broken leaf, tiny whole buds, and a few fine stem pieces.  The oxidation was quite light, falling in between a typical black tea and a Mi Lan Dancong Oolong.  The tea brews up a deep orange/amber.  The pleasant aroma is clean, and on the subtle side, with more floral character than I expect of a Kenya Black, but still retaining that characteristic aroma I identify with Kenya.  The taste was similarly restrained and clean, again combining the floral nature with a bright version of the typical Kenya flavor.  A healthy dose of astringency finally makes its appearance going into the aftertaste, which is crisp, subtle and fairly long, with a caramel note.

This is a tea for sippers who like to eke out nuance in their teas.  If you are looking for a dark, powerful Kenyan tea similar to Lifeboat, this tea will probably seem too light and subtle.  If you favor a clean, tight, high-mountain character over forward, lush flavor, give it a try.

Bai Lin Gongfu (Strand Tea Company)

This tea is quite a bit different than the last three Fujian reds I reviewed. It appears to have received less baking and is not in the least bit smoky.  The oxidation is more uniform and less aggressive too.  The leaf is less broken and with whole plump buds, giving one the impression that it was produced with more care and perhaps in smaller batches. 

The dry leaf consists of small wiry, well-twisted leaf, with a moderate amount of golden strands.  The wet leaf is a vital-looking middle brown, with a noticeable amount of buds.  The liquor is a medium amber-brown that is quite cloudy with tiny tea hairs.  The nice aroma is cleaner and more floral than many Fujian reds, with notes of sweet apple, cinnamon, malt, and cocoa powder.  The tea has a good mouth feel, seeming a bit more viscous than most, in part, no doubt, the result of the floating tea hairs.  The flavors follow the aroma, being a bit more floral than most and having a healthy dose of cocoa and malt.  Like most Fujian reds, it is sweeter than average, but with more of a cocoa/caramel flavor than the deep berry flavor of more baked and oxidized teas.  The tea is smooth going into the moderately persistent aftertaste, with cocoa and nutty/malty elements, and a bit of tannic grip and tang to anchor the flavors.   

Overall, this tea delivers an awful lot of quality for the price ($6.95 for 4 oz.).  Though not widely available, there are higher-grade versions of this tea (earlier plucking, more golden buds), but those teas are also much more expensive, and I'm quite sure, not so terribly much better. 

If you purchase this tea, use the Strand brewing instructions.  It really does well at 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 6 minutes.

Wuyi Shuixian (Strand Tea Company)

Shui Xian Oolong tea is grown in many areas of southeastern China, but most notably in Fujian and Guangdong provinces. While green balled versions in the style of Tie Guan Yin are produced in southern Fujian, the majority of Shui Xian is generously oxidized, formed into twisted strips, and fully baked. Much of the Shui Xian production consists of cheap, flat-tasting tea that's heavily processed in an attempt to add character where little exists. On the other hand, some fine and pricey examples do exist and include: Wuyi Zheng Yan (Genuine Rock) Shui Xian tea, Wuyi Lao Cong (Old Bush) Shui Xian, and high-grown versions processed as Phoenix Dancong in northern Guangdong province. Unfortunately, in between these extremes, pickings can be thin. It's really hard to find a very good, but relatively inexpensive Shui Xian.

Northern Fujian province (Min Bei) is known for its Shui Xian, and that from the Wuyi Mountains is considered the best of all the Min Bei. The very best of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown in the delimited Zheng Yan (genuine rock) area, along with all of the famous Yan Cha (Rock Teas), such as Da Hong Pao, Rou Gui, Shui Jin Gui, Tie Lou Han, and Bai Ji Guan. Most of the Wuyi Shui Xian is grown outside of the Zheng Yan zone, and the degree to which these teas approach the genuine rock article will vary. With careful processing, those from the surrounding areas with similar soil composition and climate can be very fine, and may be marketed as Ban Yan (half rock) tea. A well-made Ban Yan may be far better than a sloppily handled Zheng Yan that costs much more. In reality, the name Wuyi or Wu Yi does not guarantee much, and one can easily find cheap and awful "Wuyi" tea of questionable provenance.

Wuyi Shui Xian Oolong processing spans the spectrum, from lightly oxidized leaf with mostly green centers and oxblood edges and blotches, to leaf that is oxidized like a black tea. In addition, Wuyi Oolong undergoes a baking process, either over charcoal or in an electric oven. Shorter baking retains floral notes, and longer baking increases depth and fruitiness. As a result, almost all Wuyi Oolongs have at least a minor toasty note, and some, unfortunately, are roasted to a crisp. Tea marketed as traditional usually undergoes a moderate-to-fuller oxidation, and a longer baking. A modern or light-roast style, goes lightly on both oxidation and roasting. Many traditional-style teas may receive a more complex fermentation/oxidation that yields earthy complexities.

And now, finally, we get to today's tea. I like Wuyi teas a lot. Unfortunately, as with all the famous teas of China, the really good stuff is prohibitively expensive, and very difficult to procure. I've been lucky to have been gifted some of the real deal by Chinese friends and have purchased modest amounts of decent stuff from Chinese and US-based sources. But, these are not teas I can afford to drink every day. I've been looking for a good, moderately-priced Wuyi Shui Xian, but I've been mostly disappointed. I received a sample from Jack at Strand, not expecting much considering that the tea goes for $8.95 for 4 oz., and compared it to two teas I consider good examples in the light-roasted style: Seven Cups Premium Wuyi Narcisus, Wuyishan Forrest Park Tea Company Zheng Yan Shui Xian (Harvard Stars).

Shui Xian leaves are usually a bit bigger than the other Wuyi cultivars, and the mostly intact leaves of this Strand example were just a bit larger than those from my two benchmark teas, both of which were spring teas. The dry leaf scent was a bit more straightforward and a bit less fruity than from the benchmarks, but pleasantly full and with a light toasty note. Once steeped, the tea produced a medium amber liquor and was just a bit lighter in color than either benchmark. The wet leaf showed a fairly light oxidation, a bit less than the Seven Cups, and the baking seemed fairly similar with all three, with the leaves unfurling at approximately the same rate. The generous aroma showed strong Shui Xian character, and was notably floral with a pleasant toasty note. The benchmarks, while not quite as strong, were perhaps a bit classier with more stone fruit and honey and a more integrated toasty complexity. In all cases, the flavor followed the aroma. The Strand was more direct, more intensely floral, but less honeyed, and tasting a bit more like an autumn tea with just a hint of coarseness. All had aftertastes of moderate strength and persistence, but I did like the slightly greater tang in the Strand. None of these teas showed a lot of the thickness before the swallow that good Zheng Yan can have, and all three had a good second steeping, but not a lot after that.

This may not sound like a resoundingly good review of the Strand sample, but I was comparing it to teas that cost more than twice as much. This is a carefully processed tea of high quality that's offered at an exceptional price. It's a Shui Xian I'd drink on a regular basis and a tea I'd recommend to those who'd like to try a lighter style of Wuyi tea at an affordable price.

Parkside SFTGFOP Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)

UPDATE:
I tasted this tea again a few days after this review and realized that my notes did not do the tea justice. In fact, it was my senses that were apparently on the subtle side. This tea has a good deal more aroma, flavor, and nuance than I had thought. In fact, it's quite aromatic and flavorful, while still having a rather refined and subtle nature, and, as it turns out, not so different than the Kairbetta SFTGFOP after all. Take this as a lesson in the fallibility of this reviewer.

ORIGINAL REVIEW:
There are two teas in this series of Nilgiris tasting notes that invite comparison to a first-flush Darjeeling: the Kairbetta SFTGFOP and this tea. The two, however, could hardly be more different.

This tea appears to be a blend of two different teas: moderately oxidized curled leaf, and green OP-sized flat flakes. The dry-leaf aroma bears a strong resemblance to Darjeeling.

The tea brews up amber and has a very pleasant, but subtle aroma. It's hard for me to describe the aroma other than to say that it is a very mild representation of classic Nilgiri components, along with a bit of apricot, some nuttiness, and soft grassy floral notes. This is a fairly light-bodied tea, that comes across as soft, smooth and full in the mouth. The flavor is sweet and mild, tasting, not surprisingly, like a cross between a classic light-liquoring Nilgiri black and a green tea. The tea transitions smoothly into a modest aftertaste, with just a hint of crispness.

As described, you might get the impression that it's a plain and indifferent tea, but it's not really. It's a subtle tea, just as a good Long Jing is a fairly subtle tea. Both comfort and refresh, while leaving you wanting more. If you like a tea that hits you over the head with character, then definitely skip this one. If subtlety is something you value, this one might charm you, as it has me.

Chamraj TGFOP Nilgiri (Chado)

I really wanted to like this tea. Chamraj is a big and important Nilgiri estate and part of the United Nilgiri Tea Estates group, which also owns the popular Korakundah estate.

This is a fairly button-downed tea, with a serious demeanor. The modest aroma is slightly toasty and has a somewhat "darker" aroma that I associate with a more oxidized leaf. It's pretty much devoid of floral or herbal notes. In the mouth, the tea is pleasant, a bit flat, and with an atypical hint of cinnamon and malt. The aftertaste is the best part of this brew, with a hint of cinnamon, malt, and some woody tannin. The Nilgiri zest finally makes its appearance at the tail end of the aftertaste. Don't scrimp on the leaf with this tea, it requires a generous amount for a satisfying flavor.

It appears that the leaf for this tea has undergone a more uniform and slightly greater oxidation than is typical for the region. It also received a generous amount of baking; the tea gives off a very toasty scent when the dry leaf hits the hot water. This explains, in part, why the tea is more generic, a bit heavier, and less aromatic than much of the competition. I remember having a similar impression of a Korakundah tea I had several years ago.

Clearly, I'm not crazy about this style of tea, but this is a solid tea that you might like.

Iyerpadi BOP Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)

I reviewed the Iyerpadi OP a few posts ago. Today I'm tackling the BOP. These two teas have a common "estate" flavor, but are otherwise quite different. As expected, the BOP is composed of more fully oxidized and smaller leaf pieces, so it brews up noticeably darker and stronger for any given volume. In place of the OP's bright citrus, and herb aroma, the BOP delivers a deeper and darker aroma with much less of the herb and citrus aromatics. In the mouth, the BOP is fuller, softer, and a bit richer and is close to an Assam in texture and style. The aftertaste is softer and less bright too.

This tea, like its OP stablemate, does not easily turn bitter or astringent when over-brewed. As a result, you can make a satisfyingly rich cup by using a little extra leaf and time, and this tea seems to shine when so brewed.

This is the most Assam-like Nilgiri tea I've had. It doesn't have much in the way of the malty or chocolaty notes for which Assam is known, but it does come fairly close in the texture and strength departments. As a result, this would be my first choice for an Assam drinker interested in trying a Nilgiri. It would also be a good choice for iced tea, especially considering its strength and relatively low price of $4.95 for 4 oz.

Kairbetta SFTGFOP1 Nilgiri (Stand Tea Company)

This is a very interesting tea, classified as a black tea, but liquoring up golden and coming across more like an Oolong. It most resembles a first flush Darjeeling, but has a distinctive Nilgiri, or more specifically, a very Kairbetta aroma and flavor. Its racy aroma contains sweet, floral, and spicy elements. It tastes like it smells: strongly floral, spicy and citrus-like. By the way, that spiciness is somewhat similar to cracked coriander seed. The aftertaste lingers, with sweetness, citrus, and a hint of bitterness.

The brewed leaves are small and delicate, indicating a tender top-leaf plucking, and presumably one from the winter season. They're a light olive green stained with light brown. Clearly this tea was carefully made, and from high-quality leaf. It's also quite strong, and can become unpleasantly astringent if over-brewed. For best results, treat this tea like finicky green or astringent Darjeeling, and keep your water temperature well off the boil. At 180 degrees Fahrenheit, you can re-steep the leaves several times and get an attractively light, sweet, and pungent cup.

This is an intense tea that demands your attention, but that intensity may make it less successful as an everyday tea. It should appeal to those looking for a bold Nilgiri analog to first-flush Darjeeling. Strand is offering this high-grade stuff for the surprisingly low price of 4 oz. for $8.95.

Tiger Hill FOP Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)

I think Tiger Hill has produced a very nice tea here. This well-structured tea more closely resembles a good Ceylon than any other Nilgiri I've tried, but does so without obscuring its provenance. Somehow, the tea maker has been able to retain the best aspects of the Nilgiri identity while playing down some of the wildness. The net result is a fairly sophisticated, well-balanced tea with the stuffing and structure to stand up to milk. As good as it is, this is still a fairly straightforward tea, so don't expect lots of nuance.

This is a good choice for Ceylon drinkers looking to try a Nilgiri.

Thiashola Nilgiri (Strand Tea Company)

Several Nilgiri tea estates seem inclined to produce their basic black teas in a style that will woo the Ceylon tea drinker. I'm not sure if this is a good or bad thing, but it does leave some of these teas with a rather generic character. Rest assured, this Thiashola tea is not one of them.

There is a wild and rustic quality to this tea. The aroma, while clearly that of a Nilgiri, bears a resemblance to that of a good aged sheng (raw) Pu-Erh. There is also a slight and atypical toasty/smoky note in the aroma and flavor.

The tea liquors up a bit on the light side, and this is not surprising as the leaves show a bit less oxidization than is typical of Nilgiri blacks. That may also contribute to this tea's low astringency and its ability to take strong brewing. And, it's clearly at its best when you use a little extra leaf and time. So brewed, it becomes soft, full and soothing. Like most Nilgiris, it has a pleasant fruitiness, but unlike the Iyerpadi with its bright berry notes, the Thiashola comes across more prune-like. There's also less citrus here, but the herbal notes remain and remind me, once again, of sheng Pu-Erh. The aftertaste is moderately long and tasty.

While there are finer and more expensive Nilgiri teas to be had, for the modest price of $6.50 for 4 oz. you get an very good and interesting tea.

If teas like Wu Yi Oolong or sheng Pu-Erh appeal to you, this may be your Nilgiri.