Gold Medal Rou Gui (Tea Urchin)

This tea supposedly won a gold medal at the Wuyishan Tea Expo, so it's inevitable that I have raised expectations for it.  I wouldn't normally spend so much for a tea ($50 for 50 grams), but I also believe that one can't really understand relative value until one experiences the extremes of the product spectrum.  This one is clearly positioned near the top; let's see what all the fuss is about.

The dry leaf is bold, quite uniform, and well twisted.  It's surprisingly long.  Once moistened and unfurled, you're greeted by mostly whole leaf that is well processed.  In general, the leaf is bigger, and more whole than that in other high-quality Zheng Yan Rou Gui that I've tried.  This is clearly a modern-style oolong, with medium-to-light oxidation and medium-light baking as well.  

The tea liquors up a medium to medium-light amber orange, and the fine aroma is that of a  less processed modern-style tea.  It's quite fragrant, clean, and mellow, with an excellent balance of fruitiness, floral overtones, a light yet piercing herbaceous quality, and a dose of the roast.  No doubt, it was processed to highlight the varietal character of the leaf, and not to develop a lot of complexity.   

This Rou Gui is very smooth and very flavorful.  Compared to the other expensive, modern-style Rou Gui that I've tried, it is comparatively mellow and soft, without much of the edginess I've come to expect from this cultivar. The distinctly varietal flavor is a bit sweeter than I was expecting, with a nice balance of the fruity and the floral.  The tea really blossoms during the swallow, and ushers in a surprisingly good aftertaste.

Up to the aftertaste, this tea struck me as just a very well made, and perhaps overpriced, Rou Gui. It's first rate, don't get me wrong, but it's without quite the nuance of one of my favorite Rou Guis, and lacking quite the floral beauty of another (neither reviewed in this blog).  However, its pedigree becomes evident after the swallow, when the tea essence is felt and tasted all around the mouth and in the throat.  The aftertaste is, to the best of my recollection, the strongest and longest lasting of any Wu Yi tea I've had.  Ten minutes after the swallow, one can still taste the tea.  

The dry cup aroma is outstanding.

It think this gives about as many cups as one can expect from modern-style Wu Yi Oolong, with clearly evident varietal character after many brews.  In general, however, I find that traditional-process teas fare better in later infusions, and, in that regard, this tea is no exception.  

I learned a few things from this tea and the other high-quality rock teas I've had recently.  One is the importance of the raw product.  Regardless of the processing style, great Wu Yi starts with great leaf, and great leaf is chock full of essence.  That concentration of rock essence is often expressed in fuller and mellower teas that coat the mouth and provide exceptional aftertastes and wonderful dry-cup aromas.  This tea also allowed me to appreciate just how good Rou Gui teas are in general.  While it's arguably better than any other modern-style version I've had, it's not so much better that I would drop another $50 to restock my supply.  Nevertheless, I'm still glad I blew my holiday gift money to experience it.  If you want to try a modern-style Rou Gui that's pretty much as good as it gets, loosen your purse strings and go for it.  

Rou Gui AAA Spring 2012 (Ebay-cnteacup)

There's a big difference between this spring Rou Gui from cnteacup and their just-reviewed autumn version. Here's what I found.

The dry leaf is relatively small, with green clearly visible. Once wet, it appears delicate and supple, and a combination of hand and machine picked.  The leaf colors suggest a fairly light oxidation and a fairly light roasting as well.

The tea brews up a medium-light amber/orange.  The moderately strong aroma is that of a clean, minimally processed, modern-style rock tea.  There is a lot of floral varietal Rou Gui character, with a nice balancing fruitiness, but it's not as deeply fruity or peachy as some.  A light hint of roast rounds things out.

Right up front you're greeted with the tea's strongly varietal and floral character. It's clean and direct, and definitely leaning toward the greener side.  It's not quite as nuanced or complex as some of the other modern-style Rou Gui I've had, but it's quite good nevertheless.  After the swallow, there is some of the chalkiness and grip I associate with good rock tea.  More noticeable, perhaps, is the cleansing acidity that helps carry the aftertaste.

This tea has a very nice, lingering aftertaste, with a lemony element. Like the initial taste, it's clean and strongly varietal, and, as you might expect of a minimally processed tea, not terribly complex.

The dry cup aroma is generous and floral.

This tea has quite a bit of strength and can be brewed several times before fading into a pleasant lightness.

Clearly this is a high-quality tea produced in a very modern style.  If you are looking for a tea that's had a lot of complex processing and long roasting, then this is probably not the tea for you.  However, fans of modern-style Rou Gui will probably find this tea both charming and surprisingly affordable ($12.98 for 100 grams).

Rou Gui AAA Autumn (Ebay-cnteacup)

Up to this point, the Wu Yi teas I've commented on have been primarily from the Shui Xian bush. I'm a big fan of Shui Xian, but I have to admit it's probably the least overtly characterful of the well-known Wu Yi oolongs. Nevertheless, it's excellent at playing second fiddle, and that can be a good thing. It's almost always comforting and rarely abrasive, it goes very well with a variety of foods, and, for me at least, it's less likely to cause the jitters.  Rou Gui is not at all like that.  It demands attention and, often careful brewing.  At its best, it has a beautifully unique and piercing aroma and flavor, and an energizing kick.  Here's my experience with cnteacup's relatively inexpensive autumn version of Rou Gui.  They also have a more expensive spring version which I will be reviewing in a later post.

The dry leaf is rather typical in appearance, moderate in length, and with a slightly purple hue. The wet leaf shows signs of moderate oxidation and moderate-to-light roasting.  It appears to be a blend of hand and machine gathered leaf.

The tea liquors up a fairly deep amber/red.  The moderately intense aroma is heavier and deeper than that of a typical light-roast Rou Gui, with dark stone fruit aromas and just a hint of cocoa.  It's pleasant and rather similar to that of a Fujian red tea, but also a bit reticent.  The typical artifacts of roasting are barely discernible here.  

This Rou Gui is fairly full and mellow, but the flavor is a bit more generic and muted than in-your-face varietal.  It's still clearly Rou Gui, just not in the kind of piercing manner I'm accustomed to.  As with the aroma, there isn't a lot of the green/floral character showing, nor the complexities of the more heavily roasted versions.  The similarities with Fujian red tea show here too, with darker, cherry-like fruitiness and firm tannin.  After the swallow the tea shows a noticeable acidity and a nice grip in the throat.  

The aftertaste is quite persistent, and of moderate intensity, with hints of dark fruit and cocoa.  It's quite attractive.

This tea has more endurance than I was expecting.  It can be brewed several times.  

 At $9.99 for 100 grams, this may be the least expensive Rou Gui out there.  It's a quite a good tea, but, if you're aiming at the low end of the price range, I'd spend a bit more and get this vendor's spring Rou Gui (to be reviewed) or the Rou Gui from the Ebay store Shanghai Story.